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1 tablespoon light brown sugar

1 tablespoon ketchup

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine the ingredients in a gallon-size zipper-lock bag; seal and shake until the salt and sugar dissolve, about 30 seconds.

2. Put the bag in a bowl just large enough to hold it snugly. Open the bag and add the meat. Seal the zipper, leaving about an inch open; push on the bag to release any trapped air through the opening, and close the zipper completely. Massage the liquid gently into the meat and refrigerate for the suggested time.

Espresso Jolt

Espresso-roasted coffee is browned to the verge of being burnt, giving it a flavor complexity that has more kinship to charcoal than to a cup of cappuccino. When it comes to cooking meat, browning is not just a color; it is an essential part of our perception of succulence, which is why a brine built from the dark, roasted flavors of coffee beans and molasses has the surprising effect of making a roast taste meatier, rather than like dessert.

TIMING

Prep: 5 minutes (plus cooling time)

BROWNING—THE FLAVOR OF THE GRILL

When meat browns, complex chemical reactions take place that result in the formation of hundreds of flavorful byproducts that are sweet, sour, bitter, fruity, nutty, chocolaty, savory, meaty, floral, and caramelized (to name a few). These reactions (called the Maillard reactions after Louis Maillard, a French physician who discovered and described their effects around 1910; see page 17) occur with any speed only when the temperature of meat gets above 250°F, which is why grilled meat browns only on the outside. The temperature of water can’t get above 212°F at sea level. So as long as moisture is present, as is the case inside a juicy steak or roast, the meat can’t get hot enough to brown. But on the outside, the moisture in the meat rapidly evaporates, raising the surface temperature well over 300°F, creating a rich, caramelized color; a dense, concentrated crust; and a complex “browned” flavor.

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BRINING TIME

Brining small seafood and thin fish: 30 minutes

Brining thick fish and boneless poultry: 1 hour

Brining bone-in poultry, chops, and steaks: 2 to 3 hours

Brining roasts: 3 to 8 hours (depending on size)

GOOD WITH

Seafood: salmon or any other oily fish

Poultry: duck, chicken, turkey, game hen

Meat: beef, lamb, pork

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS)

1 lemon

2 cups strong coffee, preferably espresso roast

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

3 tablespoons kosher salt

¼ cup molasses

2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar

DIRECTIONS

1. Peel the zest from the lemon with a vegetable peeler; squeeze the juice from the lemon.

2. Combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, and the remaining ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes; let cool and pour into a gallon-size zipper-lock bag.

3. Put the bag in a bowl just large enough to hold it snugly. Open the bag and add the meat. Seal the zipper, leaving about an inch open; push on the bag to release any trapped air through the opening, and close the zipper completely. Massage the liquid gently into the meat and refrigerate for the suggested time.

Rubs and Wet Pasies

Fragrant Chile Rub

This all-purpose rub is the one you want for an all-American barbecue. Slightly sweet, a little bit spicy, smoky, and highly aromatic, it makes almost anything it touches taste great. Pair it with Sweet, Hot, and Sour BBQ Sauce (page 391).

TIMING

Prep: 5 minutes

GETTING CREATIVE

• For Mild Chile Rub, omit the ground chipotle.

STORING RUBS

When a rub contains only dry ingredients, it can be kept in a tightly closed container for up to a month. But if there is any moisture (from fresh herbs, oils, freshly grated citrus zest, or juice), the rub is best used right away. It can be kept tightly sealed in the refrigerator for a day or two, but even then its flavors will diminish and merge as it sits.

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GOOD WITH

Seafood: any fish or shellfish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen, duck

Meat: beef, lamb, pork

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP)

2 tablespoons