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to honey mustard, yet darker, richer, and more pungent. This glaze is especially good on salmon, where it develops a meaty richness that the fish has been alluding to its entire culinary life. Make up a double batch and keep the extra on hand to glaze everything from shrimp to chicken to burgers; nothing in this recipe is perishable, which means that you will go bad long before the glaze does.

GOOD WITH

Seafood: salmon or any other oily fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen, duck

Meat: lamb, pork, beef

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP)

½ cup dark molasses

¼ cup prepared brown mustard

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 teaspoons kosher salt

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine all of the ingredients.

2. Use as directed in a recipe; can be stored in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator forever.

Garlic-Plum Barbecue Glaze

Some fruits are generic. Apple, for instance, when mixed with other fruits, hides its identity, becoming a base flavor over which berries and peaches claim star status. Pear juice and white grape juice do the same thing in fruit juice blends, and when it comes to fruit and meat combinations, it is the plum that takes on the all-important and thankless supporting role. Plums are the meatiest of fruits, and when they are mixed with savory flavors they form a delicious sweet-tart pulp that everyone savors but no one can quite identify. In this glaze, plum butter or plum preserves are overshadowed by ketchup, garlic, and Worcestershire sauce.

GOOD WITH

Seafood: shrimp, salmon or any other oily fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen, duck

Meat: lamb, pork

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 2/3 CUP)

1/3 cup plum butter or other plum preserves

3 tablespoons ketchup

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce

1 teaspoon kosher salt

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine all of the ingredients.

2. Use as directed in a recipe; can be stored in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

* * *

TIMING

Prep: 5 minutes

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Orange-Espresso Glaze

Like the other espresso mixtures in this chapter, this glaze underscores the charcoal roasted flavor of whatever grilled item it touches. The orange marmalade adds a bittersweet, fruity aftertaste that reciprocates and mellows the bitter flavor of the coffee.

GOOD WITH

Seafood: shrimp, scallops, salmon or any other oily fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen, duck

Meat: lamb, pork, veal, beef

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 11/3 CUPS)

1 cup strong brewed coffee

½ teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ cup plus

2 tablespoons orange marmalade

¼ cup honey

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine all of the ingredients.

2. Use as directed in a recipe; can be stored in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Red Hots Syrup

This syrup tastes exactly like those teeny red cinnamon candies that burned holes into your childhood tongue (what exquisite agony) during your virginal introduction to the pain-pleasure sensation that is the adult allure of hot chiles and strong horseradish. The secret to the syrup is Vietnamese (or Saigon) cinnamon, which is from the same cassia family as regular cinnamon but has three times the volatile oils. It gives the spice a reddish cast and a sweet, pungent flavor that other cinnamons can’t match. Vietnamese cinnamon is sold as a gourmet spice in most supermarkets, and it is available online from penzeys.com and thespicehouse.com

GOOD WITH

Seafood: shrimp, salmon or any other oily fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen, duck

Meat: lamb, pork

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 1/3 CUP)

1/3 cup honey

1 tablespoon Vietnamese (or Saigon) cinnamon

1 teaspoon Tabasco hot pepper sauce

2 teaspoons kosher salt

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine all of the ingredients.

2. Use as directed in a recipe; can be stored in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

* * *

TIMING

Prep: 5 minutes

* * *

Ginger-Hoisin Balsamic Glaze

Thick, red-brown, sweet, and spicy, hoisin sauce is a mainstay of Chinese cooking. It is often used