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possible. As you push the lemons into the jar, some juice will be squeezed from them. When the jar is full, the juice should cover the lemons; if it doesn’t, add some fresh lemon juice.

3. Seal the jar and set aside for 3 to 4 weeks, until the lemon rinds are soft, shaking the jar every day to keep the salt distributed. The lemons should be covered with juice at all times; add more as needed.

4. Rinse before using.

* * *

GOOD WITH

Seafood: shrimp, scallops, salmon, any white-fleshed fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen

Meat: lamb, pork, veal

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP)

2 preserved lemons, coarsely chopped, seeds discarded

½ cup fresh cilantro leaves and stems

4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

¼ cup olive oil

DIRECTIONS

1. Place all of the ingredients in a food processor and process until finely chopped.

2. Use as directed in a recipe; can be stored in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

Grilled Mango Chutney

In this novel recipe, the mango is grilled as one would grill a tomato or bell pepper, charring the skin while the flesh insides smokes and softens. Not only does it give the mango a wonderful flavor, but it makes the fruit a cinch to peel. Grilling the fruit also makes it easy to force the flesh of the fruit from its pesky pit, a hairy task if you’re using a knife and raw fruit. The finished chutney is vibrant in color and very flavorful. It’s particularly good as a condiment for seafood.

TIMING

Prep: 20 minutes

GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• Clean, oiled grill grate

• Long-handled tongs

* * *

GOOD WITH

Seafood: shrimp, scallops, any fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen, duck

Meat: lamb, pork, veal

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 1¾ CUPS)

1 large, ripe mango, about 1 pound

1 large onion, peeled and cut into ½-inch-thick slices

1 tomato, seeded and finely chopped

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon minced peeled gingerroot

1 serrano chile, stem and seeds removed, minced

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1 teaspoon vanilla vinegar or other sweet-flavored vinegar

DIRECTIONS

1. Light a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. Put the mango and onion slices on the grill; grill the mango until the skin is spotty with burnt marks and the fruit inside feels soft, about 10 minutes, turning 3 times; grill the onions for 3 minutes per side. Put both in a bowl, cover, and let rest for 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, combine the remaining ingredients in a separate bowl.

3. Peel the skin from the mango with your fingers, scraping any flesh clinging to the skin into the bowl it’s been resting in. Holding the skinned mango over the bowl, squeeze it with your hands, allowing the soft flesh to squish between your fingers. Keep squeezing and rubbing until all that is left is the pit; discard the pit. Add the mashed mango to the tomato-onion mixture, and mix to combine

4. Use as directed in a recipe; can be stored in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

Photo: Making Grilled Mango Chutney

Harissa Dip

Harissa, the aromatic Moroccan chile sauce, is easy to make from scratch now that ground chiles are readily available. We use a combination of a mild chile (like ancho), a sweet pepper (like smoked paprika), and a just hint of fire from habanero for a harissa that is more aromatic and less painful on the palate than jarred harissa. Use harissa exclusively as a table sauce; it gets bitter when cooked on the grill.

TIMING

Prep: 5 minutes

* * *

GOOD WITH

Seafood: shrimp, scallops, salmon, any fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen, duck

Meat: lamb, pork, veal

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS)

¼ cup ground ancho chile

1 teaspoon spicy ground chile, such as habanero

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons pimentón (smoked paprika)

½ cup olive oil

1 tablespoon tomato paste

About ½ cup boiling water

DIRECTIONS

1. Mix the ground ancho chile, spicy ground chile, salt,