Mastering the Grill_ The Owner's Manual for Outdoor Cooking - Andrew Schloss [95]
* * *
THE GRILL
Gas:
Direct heat, high (500°F)
Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting
Charcoal:
Direct heat, red hot
12-by-12-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals) with high- and low-heat areas
Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting
Wood:
Direct heat, red hot
12-by-12-inch bed with a 4-inch-deep area for high heat and a 2-inch-deep area for low heat
Clean, oiled grate set 2 inches above the fire
INGREDIENTS (MAKES 4 SERVINGS)
2 tablespoons mixed peppercorns, such as black, green, red, and white
1 large porterhouse or T-bone steak, 2½ to 3 pounds and at least 2 inches thick
2 tablespoons olive oil
Oil for coating grill grate
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste for the sauce
3 tablespoons butter
1 large shallot or scallion, minced
½ cup Cognac
½ cup heavy cream
DIRECTIONS
1. Put the peppercorns in a zipper-lock bag, press out the air, seal, and coarsely crush with the bottom of a heavy skillet.
2. Pat the steak dry with paper towels and rub all over with the olive oil. Press the crushed pepper into both sides of the meat. Cover loosely with foil and let the meat rest for 1 to 2 hours at room temperature.
3. Heat the grill as directed.
4. Brush the grill grate and coat it with oil. Sprinkle the salt over both sides of the steak. Put the steak on the grill over high heat and cook until darkly crusted, 4 to 6 minutes per side. Reduce the heat to medium-low (on a gas grill) or move the steaks to the low-heat area (on a charcoal or wood grill), cover, and grill for another 10 to 15 minutes for medium-rare to medium-done (135° to 140°F). Transfer to a platter, cover loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 to 8 minutes.
5. While the steak rests, put the butter in a medium heavy-gauge skillet and melt over medium-low heat, either on a stove-top or directly on the grill grate. Add the shallot and cook until softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the Cognac and move the pan over the high-heat area of the grill or raise the heat to high; the Cognac might flame. Boil until reduced to about ¼ cup. Stir in the cream and any accumulated juices from the steak platter. Return to a boil and boil until slightly thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add salt to taste and serve with the steak.
Bistecca Alla Fiorentina
The famous steak from Florence is essentially a grilled porterhouse. What makes it remarkable, however, is the Italian beef itself. Bistecca alla Fiorentina is traditionally made with steaks from Chianina cattle, a giant breed raised in the Val di Chiana near Arezzo. These enormous white oxen produce tender, flavorful steaks of considerable size—each steak can weigh upwards of 5 pounds. If you’re interested in buying some of this extraordinary beef, contact the American Chianina Association, or try to find steaks from another high-quality breed such as Kobe. This simply seasoned and grilled steak is often served with lemon wedges for squeezing. We also put some lemon into the marinade to further flavor the meat.
* * *
TIMING
Prep: 8 minutes
Marinate: 8 to 24 hours
Soak wood chips: 30 minutes
Grill: About 25 minutes
GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
• 1 cup oak or hickory wood chips or chunks
• Smoker box or foil packet, if using a gas grill (see page 39)
• Long-handled tongs
TIPS
• Most supermarkets don’t usually cut steaks this thick. Call the meat department or your butcher ahead of time to order it.
• With these steaks, the T-shaped bone separates the smaller and more tender tenderloin (or filet) from the larger and slightly tougher top loin (strip). To cook both sections evenly, put the smaller, more tender section facing the low-heat area of the grill during the initial searing.
• Make 4 servings by cutting the 2 sections away from the bone and then cutting them into 4 pieces or by cutting all of the meat into ½-inch-thick slices and serving each guest a mix of tenderloin and top loin slices. The T-bone itself is up for grabs.
*