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Kosher salt

1 cup dried bread crumbs, preferably homemade

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 garlic cloves, sliced

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Egg Yolk Pasta Dough, rolled and cut into linguine

1 large brandywine heirloom tomato, peeled seeded, and diced (1 cup)

6 salt-paced anchovies, rinsed, filleted, and minced

1 tablespoon salt-packed capers, rinsed and patted dry

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup sliced fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

Bring a pot of water to a boil for the pasta and add salt until it tastes seasoned. Toast the bread crumbs in a dry skillet over medium heat, tossing as needed, until lightly browned, about 3 or 4 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the garlic and sweat it for 2 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes and cook for another 30 seconds.

Drop the pasta in the boiling water and cook until al dente, about 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, add the tomato, anchovies, and capers to the sauté pan, bring to a simmer, and cook for 2 minutes, or until the tomato has released its juices and the anchovies have melted into the sauce. Remove the sauce from the heat and add the extra-virgin olive oil and parsley.

Strain the pasta and add it directly to the sauce. Toss well before dividing among four bowls. Top with the bread crumbs.

SHEEP’S-MILK RAVIOLI WITH BROWN BUTTER AND ALMONDS

On special occasions my yia yia (my Greek grandma) would make ricotta ravioli. It was a tradition that went away as she got older, and she passed away without any of us having written down her recipe. So this is my version of a family tradition, and it’s a dish that we often serve at Lolita. I season ricotta with abundant orange zest, salt, and pepper for the filling and serve the finished ravioli with a simple brown butter sauce. Make the extra effort to find sheep’s-milk ricotta as it really is the star of this pasta—it has more body to it, a little tang. If you can’t find sheep’s-milk ricotta, mix some fresh goat cheese into cow’s-milk ricotta to give it more depth.

Serves 4

Ravioli

1 cup sheep’s-milk ricotta

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 large egg

Grated zest of 1 orange

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for pasta water

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Egg Yolk Pasta Dough

Rice flour or Wondra flour, for the work surface

Sauce

12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter

¼ cup sliced almonds

Grated zest and juice of ½ orange

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

To make the filling for the ravioli, put the ricotta in a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl and let drain in the refrigerator overnight.

Dump the ricotta into a large bowl, discarding the drained liquid. Stir in the Parmesan, egg, orange zest, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate while preparing the pasta sheets.

Roll the 4 pieces of dough through the first setting of your machine. They should each measure about 4 to 5 inches wide and 18 inches long. Lay out the sheets of dough on a countertop dusted with flour. Along one long half of each sheet of pasta, place four 2-teaspoon-size dollops of filling. Moisten the edges of the pasta with water, fold the unfilled side of the dough over the filling side, and press around the perimeter of each mound to seal. Using a round ravioli or 2-inch cookie or biscuit cutter, cut out the ravioli and place on a floured rimmed baking sheet. You should have 12 to 16 ravioli. You can wrap and refrigerate the ravioli at this point for up to a day or freeze for 1 month.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and add enough salt so that it tastes seasoned. When the water returns to a boil, add the ravioli and boil until they float. Once they float, cook for 1 minute longer.

While the ravioli are cooking, make the sauce. Heat the butter over medium-high heat in a sauté pan large enough to later accommodate the cooked ravioli. When the butter is foaming, add the sliced almonds and sauté until golden brown, about 2 minutes.