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PICKLED GREEN TOMATOES

In the summertime in Cleveland we have a network of local farmers who supply our tomatoes. They always have a large quantity of green tomatoes that have fallen from the vine that they don’t want to throw away. The green tomatoes are priced well, and we take as many as we can find because I love serving them pickled with rich grilled and braised meats.

Makes 2 quarts

3 fresno chilies, split

2 bay leaves

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

2 tablespoons cumin seeds

1 cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon cloves

1 teaspoon ground mace

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

5 garlic cloves

4 cups cider vinegar

¼ cup honey

2 tablespoons kosher salt

2 pounds green tomatoes of equal size

Combine the chilies, bay leaves, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, cinnamon stick, cloves, mace, black peppercorns, garlic, vinegar, honey, salt, and ½ cup water in a nonreactive saucepan and bring the liquid to a boil. Cook for 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let the liquid cool slightly.

Lightly prick each tomato 4 to 5 times with a wooden skewer. Place them in two 1-quart jars, cover them with the warm liquid, and screw on the lids. Refrigerate the tomatoes for up to 1 month.

PICKLED CUCUMBERS, GREEN BEANS, OR YELLOW WAX BEANS

This is a great table pickle. You’ll often find it in pickle jars on deli counters to accompany sandwiches. But I like to put them in a tomato salad in place of regular cucumbers for a little twist, or I dice them up to add to a quick potato salad. The key to keeping the vegetable green is to blanch it first. The grape leaves are not just a nod to my Greek ancestry but also help in the fermentation process, as they’re already fermented.

Makes about 2 quarts

Kosher salt

2 pounds small pickling cucumbers, green beans, yellow beans, or ¼-inch-thick slices of mature cucumbers

White wine vinegar

Sugar

7 garlic cloves, peeled

4 sprigs of fresh dill

2 fresno chilies

3 bay leaves

3 brined grape leaves

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add enough salt so that it tastes like the ocean, about 1 cup per gallon. When the water returns to a boil, blanch the vegetables in the boiling water for 1 minute, then drain them, and run under cold water to cool.

Pack the vegetables in two 1-quart jars and cover them with water to come within ½ inch of the rim. Pour the water out into a measuring cup. Note the volume, pour off half the water, and replace it with vinegar. Add 2 tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons salt for every 3 cups of liquid.

Pour the vinegar mixture into a large bowl and add the garlic, dill, chilies, and bay leaves. Pour the liquid over the vegetables. Top with the grape leaves and weight down the ingredients with a ramekin or plate to ensure everything is submerged in brine.

Place the jars in a cool ventilated area for 1 to 2 weeks. The brine will become cloudy when the fermentation begins. When the liquid is clear, the fermentation is complete and you can seal the jars. The pickles are ready to eat immediately but will keep for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.

DILL PICKLES

I typically wouldn’t defer to a writer for a good recipe, because they’re usually so unreliable, but in a rare instance of writer trumps chef, Michael Ruhlman brought me some of these pickles one day, and I have to admit they are as good as any I have ever eaten. They’re crunchy and salty, and they have that great natural acidity that develops during the fermentation process. The perfect pickle. Maybe Ruhlman is right: if you write about food long enough, you can actually learn how to cook! These are best with freshly picked young cucumbers, which are often available at farmers’ markets.

Makes about 1 quart

3 tablespoons kosher salt

1 bunch of fresh dill

10 to 15 garlic cloves, to taste

1 pound pickling cucumbers

Combine 3¾ cups water with the salt, dill, and garlic in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until the salt is dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool to room temperature.