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You’ll see this simple technique used throughout this book: vinaigrettes on pork chops and lamb chops, on scallops with sausage, on pork belly with watermelon, on fried Brussels sprouts. And even when I don’t call something a vinaigrette, there’s invariably some acidic ingredient that serves the same purpose. In this chapter, you’ll find a straightforward vinaigrette on a simple preparation of sautéed shrimp.

I’ve never relied too much on stocks and stock-based sauces. They too easily become over-reduced and sticky on the tongue. Stocks are also time-consuming. We’re always making stock at the restaurant—and when I do use them, it’s because they’re vital. And I don’t tend to make a lot of stock at home. When saucing food, I almost always turn to a vinaigrette.

Cold vinaigrettes are excellent, but add one to the hot pan you’ve sautéed some shrimp in, and the blended acid and oil will pick up all the flavor of the bits of protein and sugars that have stuck to the pan. Toss in some herbs, adjust the seasoning, and you’re done. You’re combining all the elements of a classic sauce, but instead of taking a long time, it all comes together à la minute.

A word about vinaigrettes generally: The classic vinaigrette ratio is 3 to 1, three parts oil to one part vinegar. But I’ve always found that to be a little flat. You don’t really need all that oil; to me it makes a dish unnecessarily heavy. Instead, I start a vinaigrette with a 1 to 1 ratio, equal parts acid and fat, and then gradually increase the fat until it tastes right. The strength is dependent on two things: what I’m putting it on and the type of acid being used. Is it a sharp red wine vinegar, a milder sherry vinegar, or a sweet balsamic? If I’m using citrus, is it orange juice, which is relatively low in acid and very sweet, or is it lime juice, which is sharper even than lemon juice? Taste, taste, taste. You’ve always got to be tasting.

I use the hot vinaigrette technique all the time at the restaurants, and it’s a perfect strategy for the home cook. Learn the technique with one dish, and then apply it to virtually any sauté you wish, fish or meat or vegetable. Alter your acid, and vary your herb—mint, basil, parsley, whatever you wish. The technique is quick, it uses ingredients that are at hand, and, most important, its results are really delicious

SHRIMP WITH DILL VINAIGRETTE

This is a simple shrimp and garlic sauté: The shrimp are quickly seared and garlic is added, followed by a little bit of wine to finish cooking them and to begin the sauce. A quick stock made from the shells of the shrimp and a warm vinaigrette ties everything together. Make the vinaigrette just before sautéing the shrimp so that the dill doesn’t discolor.

Serves 4 as a starter or 2 as a main course

Shrimp

½ onion, thinly sliced

½ carrot, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon canola oil

2 slices peeled fresh ginger, each the size of a quarter

1 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted (see Symon Says)

½ bay leaf, crumbled

1 pound large (12- to 16-count) shrimp, peeled and deveined, shells reserved

2 tablespoons olive oil

Kosher salt

2 garlic cloves, sliced

¼ cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon salt-packed capers, rinsed and drained

Dill vinaigrette

1 shallot, minced

Kosher salt

Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a small saucepan over medium heat, sweat the onion and carrot in the canola oil until softened, 2 minutes. Add the ginger, coriander, bay leaf, and shrimp shells and cook until the shrimp shells are pink. Add 2 cups water and bring to a simmer. Simmer on low for 15 to 20 minutes while you prepare the dill vinaigrette. When you’re ready to cook the shrimp, strain the stock through a fine-mesh strainer into a measuring cup. You’ll need ½ cup.

To make the vinaigrette, combine the shallot in a bowl with a pinch of salt. Add the lemon zest and juice and the dill. Whisk in the extra-virgin olive oil and add more salt if needed.

To cook the shrimp, heat