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I like to remove the cover during the last half hour or so of cooking, to further brown the exposed surface of the meat and to reduce the cooking liquid to a flavorful sauce.

The meat is done when it’s tender—often referred to as fork tender, meaning it gives no resistance when you stick a fork or knife into it. The pot is then removed from the heat and the meat is left to cool in its own braising liquid. You could eat it immediately, but, for a number of reasons, braised dishes are best a day or so after they’ve cooked. Cooling the liquid allows the fat to rise and congeal on the surface, where it can easily be removed; the meat reabsorbs some of the cooking liquid as it cools; and flavors continue to develop during the cooling phase.

Once the braise is thoroughly chilled, the meat can be removed from the cooking liquid and that liquid can be adjusted for its final use as the sauce for the braise. You have the opportunity here to reduce it a little more, adjust its seasoning, and adjust its texture, whether by straining out the solids for a very refined sauce or by puréeing it for a thicker sauce or leaving the aromatic vegetables whole for a more rustic finished dish.

BRAISED VEAL SHANK WITH GREMOLATA

Like the pot roast, this is another of those fundamental braised dishes, but I like to jazz it up it with some gremolata. Many people serve this kind of dish with something rich, such as mashed potatoes; traditionally in Italy this would be served with a saffron risotto. But I think it’s a mistake to pair rich with rich in most cases.

Endive is a perfect side for this winter dish: It’s available in cold months and adds a bitter edge to the rich veal and sauce as well as some sweetness developed in the braising process. Gremolata—lemon zest, garlic, and parsley, all of it minced—is a classic garnish for this and many other braises.

Serves 6

Veal Shanks

¾ cup brine-cured green olives

6 2-inch-thick veal shank pieces

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

All-purpose flour, for dredging

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 medium-large onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 salt-packed anchovy fillet, rinsed and chopped

Grated zest of 2 lemons

1½ tablespoons salt-packed capers, rinsed and drained

3 sprigs of fresh rosemary

1½ cups dry white wine

1½ cups Chicken Stock

Braised Endive with Citrus

Gremolata

¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest

1½ teaspoons minced garlic, or to taste

Preheat the oven to 275°F.

To make the veal, lightly crush the olives with the side of a large knife and discard the pits. Finely chop a third of them and set aside.

Pat the veal shanks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Dredge each shank in flour and shake off the excess. In a 12-inch heavy sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil and the butter over medium-high heat until the foam subsides. Brown both sides of the shanks in batches, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer the shanks to a roasting pan.

Wipe out the sauté pan and add the remaining tablespoon of oil. Add the onion and cook over medium heat, stirring, until golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and anchovy and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the olives, lemon zest, capers, rosemary, and wine and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the stock and return the liquid to a simmer. Pour over the shanks and cover the roasting pan tightly with foil. Reduce the oven temperature to 225°F and braise the shanks in the oven for 4 to 6 hours, or until the meat is very tender. If desired, let the shanks cool before covering and refrigerating for up to 2 days. Discard the fat from the top before reheating.

To make the gremolata, combine the parsley, zest, and garlic in a small bowl.

Transfer the shanks with a slotted spoon to another roasting pan or deep ovenproof platter and keep warm, covered, in the oven. Strain the cooking liquid through a sieve into a 1-quart (4-cup)