Microbrewed Adventures - Charles Papazian [28]
The idea to recreate a historic version of this black ale was proceeding at the brewery, using malted barley, hops and selected spices. The beer, label and packaging were ready to be introduced to beer drinkers as “1554.”
Book with a Little Rose
Book with the Little Rose. Courtesy of Peter Bouckaert, New Belgium Brewing Co.
Through good fortune and lucky circumstances, Peter found a copy of Het Boeck mette Rooskens in the city archives of Brussels. It was handwritten on parchment, dated September 27, 1447. Written in old Flemish, in stylistic cursive, the book deals with legislated city laws, of which about 32 pages concern “swart ofte zwert bier” beer-related matters. Peter believes that Brussels at the time was a small town of perhaps 15,000 people and 1,000 breweries.
Peter recalls, “Everyone was making beer at the time and there were rules in each town that governed what could be used and how you could make beer. Some references to black beers used oats while others may have used barley and wheat. Some reference hops and others reference gruits, the mixture of herbs and spices that were used more often than hops to flavor beer.”
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1447 BELGIUM ZWARTE ROSE ALE
Brewed with ingredients of the 15th and 16th century such as grains of paradise, amber-colored Munich malt, wheat, oats and crystallized caramel malt, “1447” is a dark beer with no roasted malts. My recipe takes liberty with the addition of rose petals. It’s unlikely they were used in 15th-century Belgium, but they remind me of the creative Belgian spirit of brewing and this is the year 2005. This recipe can be found in About the Recipes.
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Peter admits he is not a historian, but he certainly values the historic as well as modern-day creativity involved in the mystical process of making craft microbrewed beers. When he can find time, or someone to help translate the difficult old Flemish, Peter plans to learn more about his Belgian brewing roots and perhaps some old wisdom that can be applied to his modern brewery, to brew beer for all of us beer drinkers to savor.
Had he found the “Book with the Little Rose” soon enough, we might be enjoying 1447 rather than 1554.
Hop Whompus
Oggi’s Pizza & Brewing and Left Coast Brewing Company
TOM NICKEL is the brewmaster of Oggi’s Pizza and Brewing Company’s Left Coast Brewery. His birthday is August 13, the same day as my wife’s and also of lifelong friend Whitey Jensen, so I have some insight into the Leo the Lion personality behind the passion for taste, adventure and discovery. I’ve never studied astrology, nor do I know what the books say about Leos, but I do know what an adventure it is to hang out with them.
I’m glad I made the effort to spend a day with Tom in July 2004, visiting the brewery where he has created world-class award-winning ales. To say that Tom is passionate about beer is an understatement. Beer springs forth from every pore of his body and soul. When he is around beer, the guy is all about the planet Microbrew!
Tom Nickel
Tom’s beers are notable for their stylistic balance of flavors, while venturing to the edge of creativity, forging new territories. He is an extraordinary brewer and an extraordinary teacher. While discussing beer and brewing with Rick Smets, Tom’s assistant brewer, it became quite obvious why the beer was so excellent. With a glass of vat-fresh pale ale, Rick explains, “I get up every day in the morning and come to work and am so thankful to have this job as a