Microbrewed Adventures - Charles Papazian [49]
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Raising the Drinking Age to 40
The Lyons Brewery Depot
SUNOL LIES about an hour southwest of San Francisco’s Bay Area. When I managed a pilgrimage there in the late 1980s, Sunol was a small town. No, actually, it was a place, near a railroad crossing, where Judy Ashworth owned and ran her original specialty beer bar. It was called the Lyons Brewery Depot. A pioneer beer establishment, it was a mecca for beer enthusiasts in an age when yellow fizzy beer predominated the American landscapes.
Upon my autumnal arrival, I couldn’t help but notice the only two other businesses in town: the feed store to the left and another tavern 50 feet down the road, a classic “biker bar” where shots of tequila and ice-cold Bud, Miller and Coors contrasted with what was happening at the Depot.
I did want to make an appearance at the biker bar. Outside, 50 choppers were parked, gleaming in the late afternoon sun. Intrigued, I took a brief side trip, entered, talked “hog” and had a cold one, but the other adventure—of spending time at Judy Ashworth’s historic Lyons Brewery Depot—was more my style.
Entering the Depot I was greeted excitedly: “Charlie, how about a Stanley Steamer?” Was this yet another new beer from another new California microbrewer? No. With pride and enthusiasm, Judy explained, “I invented it myself. It’s terrific. You blend half a draft of Anchor Steam beer with half of St. Stan’s Dark Alt beer. The richness of the alt beer hits you first, but oh…,” she was just beginning to get really excited, “how the Steam beer comes through in the aftertaste! It’s all Steam in the aftertaste.” Before I could even consider the implications of what she had confided, I was confronted with a short glass of Stanley Steamer.
Judy’s 20 beers on draft included an assortment of California microbrews, making the pilgrimage well worth the trip. She took great pride in being the first and now one of the few taverns serving Anchor’s Old Foghorn barleywine-style ale on draft. The hop harvest at the back of the tavern had recently been completed. As she preached the virtues of hops to one of her beer patrons, yet another glass of beer appeared: “Foggy Night in the Sierras. You’ll love this, Charlie! It’s Old Foghorn and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.” I did. The strength and the classic fruitiness of the barley wine served to round out the thirst-quenching hoppy dryness of the pale ale.
Old Foghorn and Guinness Stout were combined next to further cheer me up with what Judy called “Irish Mist.” The afternoon went on. The sun made motions in the west and as it set, Judy continued to educate me in the fine art of beer blending. There were many more blends, but she saved the best for last.
Judy Ashworth at the Lyons Brewery Depot
“Okay, Charlie…. This is it. The ultimate of ultimates.” Her level of excitement was peaking. The new Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale had just come in the day before and already she had a combination for it. A glass appeared before me, seething with a dense creamy head of foam. Judy warned me, “You have to be 40 years old or over to be allowed to drink this one.” I lied and told her I was, and then took one sip. My sensory paraphernalia shifted four dimensions, all in opposite ways. “What do you think? I call it ‘A Foggy Christmas Eve.’” There was no doubt about it. She had combined Old Foghorn and Sierra Nevada’s Celebration Ale in a way that would probably make each brewmaster cringe at the thought, yet for this palate, the experience was absolutely inspiring.
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OLD LIGHTHOUSE IN THE FOG BARLEYWINE ALE
Anchor released their first draft barley wine to the Lyons Brewery Depot. It was a momentous event in the history of microbrewed