Microbrewed Adventures - Charles Papazian [64]
From the train station it is about a three-mile, thirst-provoking walk through the forest to the top of the hill where the monastery peacefully overlooks the valley. The monks brew a variety of beers for which they are famous and I was seeking the one they were most famous for, Andechs bock beer.
I was quite surprised to see the day’s chalkboard drink menu absent of my heart’s desire. What perplexed me even more was the listing of two other drinks that were completely foreign to me, “Radler” and “Diesel.” I was beginning to feel disillusioned and quite disappointed.
I had seen these drinks listed in other parts of Germany but really didn’t pay them attention. Now I was annoyed. I drooled at the thought of downing a liter of their famous fresh, microbrewed dark Andechs bock beer but it was not served on the weekend. In the absence of bock beer my choice was limited to Andechs Helles. But what were these intrusions called Radler and Diesel? I was in the land of beer heaven. I was in Germany! They make beer here with only malt, hops, water and yeast. My thoughts were preoccupied with the question, “What is this other stuff?”
To my astonishment, I learned that Germans often mix lemonade with their beer and call it a Radler. Diesel was a popular half-beer, half-cola beverage also enjoyed by Germans. For me it seemed a best-kept secret that was best kept a secret! They say it’s “not bad.” But there is no way in beer heaven nor any other part of Planet Beer I will be mixing lemonade or cola with my beer. If word ever got out that Germans add lemonade and cola to their beer, there would be millions of disillusioned beer drinkers throughout the beer-loving world.
Restricted to their Helles lager, I nevertheless enjoyed the experience immensely. But what had happened to the bock beer? The problem, it turned out, was that recently the monks had decided to limit the weekend tourist crowds to their less potent Helles, as they’ve had problems with drunks who could not handle their higher-strength beers. So if you visit the monastery, go on a weekday (and note that the beer house is closed on Tuesdays).
* * *
ANDECH’S WEEKDAY BOCK
In the pure tradition of an all-malt German lager, this bock beer is an excellent rendition of the style: malty, with a balance of piquant German-grown hop flavor, aroma and pleasantly soft bitterness. American Crystal hops offer equal character, providing artisanal nuances. This beer is fresh-tasting and immensely drinkable. Even at 7 percent alcohol this bock beer would be served on weekdays at Andechs, but anytime is fine with me. This recipe can be found in About the Recipes.
* * *
German Rye Beer
Thurn und Taxis
IN 1988, while vacationing and trekking through the jungles of Thailand, I was cooling my thirst one evening in a mountain cave not far from the Burmese border. The beer was Singha, the most popular Thai beer at the time. We were sitting around a fire when a German traveler seated across from me agreed that Singha was “an all right beer.” He continued about the many good beers in his country, “…but if you are ever interested in an unusual beer you must go to Regensburg. There is a brewery called Thurn und Taxis. It is in nearby Schierling and they make a rye beer.”
Six months after sharing a beer in a jungle cave, I found myself leaving the Miesbach train station at 10:25 A.M., headed for Regensburg.
Only about three hours north of Munich, Regensburg is steeped in malt and history. It’s the birthplace of Martin Luther. Regensburg’s population is about 100,000, and it has more than 100 churches and four breweries. Many years ago there were more than 40 breweries. The 20th century had a detrimental effect on this town’s beer culture.
When I visited, three of the breweries were “public” only Thurn und Taxis was privately owned. The public breweries were incorporated in such a way that their profits went to charitable foundations. The Bischof’s Brauerei profits went to priests. The Spital Brauerei profits went to a hospital for the aged, and the Knietinger Brauerei,