Microbrewed Adventures - Charles Papazian [69]
I was about to ask who their customers were when they apologized that the brewpub was closed for the day. Being one of the very few English-style pubs in Paris, they had inadvertently attracted soccer thugs, who the night before were handing out trudgeons and knives in preparations for “cheering” their team’s match against Spain. Thor and Paul didn’t want any part of that, so they had shut down for the day.
With this one exception, the pub is quite civilized, with a mixed clientele of tourists, British expats and local Parisians who appreciate the ambience and British-style ales. What was I to brew? “Whatever you brew, Charlie, it should be unusual, so that we mustn’t forget you were here,” was the sentiment. “Does it have to be a traditional style?” I asked. They unanimously agreed that it should have flair, be creative and be remembered in Paris.
I was scheduled to brew the next morning. We tossed about some ideas. Well, actually, I asked a few leading questions. “Can I use spices?” I sensed that Thor and Paul were exchanging nervous glances, but David, always the adventurer and joker, charged forward, not hesitating to encourage my direction. “How about casket-conditioned veal ale?” he shouted, his eyes squinting with laughter.
“Could you find some whole coriander seed?” I asked. There was an Indian specialty store in the neighborhood, so we had that problem resolved. I had decided that this was Paris. I was American. The brewpub was thematically English. The owners were Icelandic. Why not create a hybrid with an artistic flair. Ah, Paris in the springtime!
Brewing in Paris
I had decided to make somewhat of a light brown wheat ale, lightly yet flavorfully hopped, with the addition of freshly crushed coriander seed. The ale was a combination of pale lager malt, crystal malt, wheat malt and chocolate malt. Czech Saaz and German Hersbrucker Hallertauer hops were used rather than British hops in order to create a more continental European character. I used 1.4 kilograms of crushed coriander seed to remind the French of the rich Belgian beer culture to their north.
It took the better part of the next morning, as we hand paddle-stirred the mash to perfection and dosed the boiling kettle with hops and coriander at my prescribed times. Tasting the unfermented wort, I was satisfied that it was what I had imagined it to be. If there were any complaints about the beer, I would take full responsibility. Quite frankly, I was very nervous about how my first professionally brewed beer would be accepted.
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FROG & ROSBIF’S BROWN WHEAT CORIANDER ALE
This recipe is similar to the beer I brewed in Paris, a light brown wheat ale, lightly yet flavorfully hopped with the addition of freshly crushed coriander seed. A French revolution in the making and a reminder of the rich Belgian beer culture to their north, the recipe can be found in About the Recipes.
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I learned later that even at Parisian beer prices of $8 a pint, it had been popular enough that they brewed a second batch. It made me feel quite accomplished as a novice professional. Since that time, Thor and Paul have successfully opened up six more “Frog &…” brewpubs in France and Lisbon (www.frogpubs.com).
Poetic Justice in Italy
The Microbrewers of Italy
AGOSTINO ARIOLI IS a craft brewer who continues to serve time as an accused criminal. At first this may be of passive interest to most of you, but his customers aren’t likely to dismiss Agostino’s crimes against Italian beer drinkers. His brewery, Birrificio Italiano, in Lurago Marinone (a suburb of Como), produces over 700 hectoliters of craft-brewed lagers a year for his successful brewpub. He is accused by his customers of crimes against beer drinkers: “You are a criminal,