Middle East - Anthony Ham [115]
A few kilometres away is Saqqara (adult/student E£50/25; 8am-4pm Oct-Apr, 8am-5pm May-Sep), a massive necropolis covering 7 sq km of desert and strewn with pyramids, temples and tombs. Deceased pharaohs and their families, administrators, generals and sacred animals were interred here. The star attraction is the Step Pyramid of Zoser, the world’s oldest stone monument and the first decent attempt at a pyramid. Surrounding it is Zoser’s pyramid complex, which includes shrines and a huge court. Other attractions include the Mastaba of Ti and the Pyramid of Teti.
Ten kilometres south of Saqqara is Dahshur (adult/student E£25/15; 8am-4pm Oct-Apr, 8am-5pm May-Sep), an impressive 3.5km-long field of 4th- and 12th-dynasty pyramids, including the Bent Pyramid (unfortunately off limits to visitors) and the wonderful Red Pyramid. If your budget is limited, there’s a lot to be said for visiting Dahshur and exploring the interior of this, the oldest true pyramid in Egypt, rather than spending a fortune at Giza.
It’s possible to visit Memphis, Saqqara and Dahshur in five hours, but you will need your own transport to get here, travel around the sites (parking at each site costs E£2 to E£5) and bring you back to Cairo. A taxi will cost around E£150 to E£200 shared among a maximum of seven people. Stipulate the sights you want to see and how long you want to be out, and be ready for some fancy bargaining. Otherwise, organise a day tour (Click here).
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MEDITERRANEAN COAST
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ALEXANDRIA
03 / pop 4.1 million
Although Alexandria today has barely an ancient stone to show for its glorious past, it is in its cosmopolitan allure and Mediterranean pace of life that the magic lies. Sprawling necklace-like along a curving bay, this town vies with Cairo for the title of Egypt’s culture capital. Our vote lies with Alexandria – be sure to scope out its splendid cluster of restaurants, its moody, antediluvian cafés and vibrantly active youth scene and cast your vote.
History
Established in 332 BC by Alexander the Great, the city became a major trade centre and focal point of learning for the entire Mediterranean world. Its ancient library held 500,000 volumes and the Pharos lighthouse was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Alexandria continued as the capital of Egypt under the Roman Empire and its eastern offshoot, the Byzantine Empire. From the 4th century onwards, the city declined into insignificance. Napoleon’s arrival and Alexandria’s subsequent redevelopment as a major port attracted people from all over the world, but the Revolution of 1952 put an end to much of the city’s pluralistic charm.
Orientation
Alexandria is a true waterfront city, nearly 20km long from east to west and only about 3km wide. The focal points of the city are Midan Ramla (Mahattat Ramla) and adjacent Midan Saad Zaghloul. Around these two midans are the main tourist office, restaurants, cafés and most of the cheaper hotels. To the west of this central area are the older quarters of the city, such as Anfushi. To the east are newer, and swishier suburbs stretching 15km along the coastline to easternmost Montazah.
Information
INTERNET ACCESS
Internet cafés open and close in the blink of an eye in Alexandria. Two of the more reliable:
MG@Net (per hr E£2; 10am-midnight) Conveniently near Midan Saad Zaghloul.
Zawia Computer Internet Café ( 484 8014; Sharia Dr Hassan Fadaly; per hr E£4; 11am-11pm) Off Sharia Safiyya Zaghloul.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Al-Madina at-Tibiya ( 543 2150/7402; Sharia Ahmed Shawky, Rushdy) Well-equipped private hospital, accustomed to dealing with foreign patients.
MONEY
For changing cash, the simplest option is to use one of the many exchange bureaus on the side streets between Midan Ramla and the Corniche. For travellers cheques and forex services you can also go to:
American Express ( 420 1050; 14 Mai, Elsaladya Bldg, Smouha; 9am-5pm