Middle East - Anthony Ham [118]
Cecil Hotel ( 487 7173; www.sofitel.com; 16 Midan Saad Zaghloul; s/d US$205/245, with sea view US$265/306; ) The historic Cecil Hotel, an Alexandria legend now managed by the international Sofitel chain, has been refitted several times over the last couple of decades, only sometimes for the better. The rooms are fully equipped, though a little sombre, while the grand lobby and famous bar (now relocated to the 1st floor) have retained only a fraction of the lustre they had when Durrell and Churchill came to visit. The big consolation is the sweeping view over Eastern Harbour.
Eating
The main place for cheap eats is around the area where Sharia Safiyya Zaghloul meets Midan Ramla. There are plenty of little fuul and ta’amiyya stands here, as well as sandwich shops and the odd kushari stand. Anfushi is where to head to sample some of Alexandria’s best and freshest seafood.
Elite ( 486 3592; 43 Sharia Safiyya Zaghloul; mains E£4.50-30; 9am-midnight) One of those Alexandrian time-warp affairs, Elite is cut from the same cloth as an old US diner – sealed in a 1950s bubble and almost slipping back in time. The menu traverses from the oriental to the occidental and tries to cover everything in between, though it’s best to stick to the simple things. Beer is served.
Hood Gondol Seafood ( 476 1779; cnr of Omar Lofty & Mohammed M Motwe; meals around E£25) For a quick fix of delicious, fresh and ridiculously cheap seafood – make a beeline for this local favourite. A massive plate of mixed seafood, including prawns, calamari, spicy clams and fried fish, as well as salads and bread, will barely make a dint in your wallet at E£25. It’s located down an unmarked alley; ask for directions as everyone knows it by name.
Abu Ashraf ( 481 6597; 28 Sharia Safar Pasha, Bahari; mains E£35-60; 24hr) Make your selection from the day’s catch, then take a seat under the green awning and watch it being cooked. Sea bass stuffed with garlic and herbs is a speciality as is the creamy shrimp kishk or casserole. Price is determined by weight and type of fish, ranging from grey mullet at E£40 per kilo to jumbo prawns at E£150 per kilo.
Qadoura ( 480 0405; 33 Sharia Bairam at-Tonsi, Bahari; meals E£35-80; 9am-3am) This is one of Alexandria’s most authentic fish restaurants. Pick your fish from a huge ice-packed selection, which usually includes sea bass, red and grey mullet, bluefish, sole, squid, crab and shrimp, and often a lot more. A selection of mezze is served with all orders (don’t hope for a menu). Most fish average E£40 to E£80 per kilo, prawns E£180 per kilo.
Fish Market ( 480 5119; Corniche, Bahari; mains E£50-80; noon-2am; ) Fish Market is the most upmarket fish restaurant in Alexandria. With prime views over the Eastern Harbour and flashy silver service, you can pick your own seafood and have it cooked to perfection any way you wish. It’s on the Corniche beside the Kashafa Club.
Tikka Grill ( 480 5114; Corniche) With the same owners as Fish Market, and situated on the floor below it, Tikka Grill dishes up a similar, but more meat-centric, dining experience.
For quick eats, try the following:
Gad (Sharia Saad Zaghloul; snacks E£1-9; 24hr) Chain of absurdly popular take-away joints. Try the filled sandwiches, kebabs, ta’amiyya or mouth-watering shwarma.
Mohammed Ahmed ( 483 3576; 17 Sharia Shakor Pasha; mains E£2-5) The king of Alexandria’s fuul and ta’amiyya scene.
El-Qobesi ( 486 7860; 51 Corniche; juices E£3-6; 24hr) The best darn mango and fruit shakes in Egypt.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Direct international flights fly into Alexandria’s international airport, Burg al-Arab ( 459 1483), 60km west of the city, from Athens, Frankfurt and London as well as many Middle East capitals. There’s a second, smaller airport at Nouzha ( 425 0527) where some flights land.