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Middle East - Anthony Ham [126]

By Root 2009 0
two is not easy. The West Bank is quieter, has fewer touts and is closer to Luxor’s main tombs and temples. There is a great selection of midrange accommodation choices, but it’s pretty isolated and eating options are limited. The East Bank is where most of the shopping and entertainment action is, as well most of Luxor’s budget hotels and cheap eateries. It’s home to the Karnak and Luxor temples, Luxor Museum and a battery of calèche drivers, hotel touts and shop owners who seem to revel in hassling tourists.

Avoid the dodgy hotel touts who pounce on travellers as they get off the train – they get a 25% to 40% commission for taking you to certain hotels (which ends up being factored into your bill). They’re also renowned for telling fibs about hotels that refuse to pay them commission.

East Bank

Budget

Princess Hotel (Map; 012 431 3699; Sharia Ahmed Orabi; s/d E£15/30, without bathroom E£10/20) Offering one of the cheapest places to kip in Luxor, this pad is a welcome addition to the ultra-budget scene. Don’t expect fireworks; rooms are neat but uncomplicated, though the hallways have been gussied up with heartfelt murals. Staff are easygoing and chatty, and there’s a scruffy, be-cushioned rooftop terrace. Bonus brownie points: you can order a cold Stella on the rooftop (E£10). Breakfast is E£5 extra.

Oasis Hotel (Map; 010 496 1848; Sharia Mohammed Farid; d E£40, s/d without bathroom E£20/30; ) This superb budget hotel is one of the best bang-for-buck deals in town. Scrupulously maintained by friendly staff, the generous, Smurf-blue rooms here are good enough to put your fussy grandma in. There’s a lovely, rooftop terrace scattered with (blue) cushions, bike rental, free afternoon tea and free internet. Don’t confused it with the subpar Nubian Oasis Hotel down the road.

Sherief Hotel (Map; 237 0757; sheriefhotel@yahoo.co.uk; Sharia Badr; s/d E£40/60, without bathroom E£25/50; ) Also called Bob Marley Home, this cosy establishment is down a hushed dead-end street and is plastered with posters of everyone’s favourite Rastafarian. Attracting not only the dreadlock brigade, the small rooms at this hotel are very tidy, sporting ornate frilly touches. The extremely friendly owner Abdul promises a big breakfast of yoghurt and fruit, and the rooftop has views over the Nile. Student discounts available.

Happy Land Hotel (Map; 237 1828; www.luxorhappyland.com; Sharia Qamr; s/d E£65/74, without bathroom E£40/46; ) Perennially popular and often full, Happy Land has been attracting backpackers for eons. Managed by the animated Mr Ibrahim Abdul, this place has squeaky clean, freshly painted rooms, half of which have air-con and private bathrooms. The sometimes harried atmosphere can be a little much for some, but throw in generous breakfasts, soap and mosquito coils and most punters are happy. There’s a rooftop lounge with satellite TV, bikes for hire and free laundry facilities.

Horus Hotel (Map; 237 2165; Sharia al-Karnak; s/d E£45/60) Frills are at a premium at this strategically situated old-timer. The rooms here have white tiles slapped on nearly every available surface and are kept just above minimum hygiene levels. While the management have a cavalier attitude to service, the view from the front-facing rooms is the Horus’ saving grace – the balconies practically hang over the Luxor temple. Street noise can be an issue.

Nefertiti Hotel (Map; 237 2386; www.nefertitihotel.com; btwn Sharia al-Karnak & Sharia as-Souq; s/d E£50/80; ) You can’t beat this location: right in the thick of the market action and surrounded by ahwas on every side. This splendid budget option has unfussy but faultlessly maintained rooms with small private bathrooms and air-con. The roof terrace has views over to the West Bank, and the top-floor lounge has a pool table and satellite TV. A generous breakfast is included. Nice one.

Midrange

Little Garden Hotel (Map; 227 9090; www.littlegardenhotel.com; Sharia Radwan; s/d US$18/24; ) Located down a side street in the bustling heart of the city, this slightly older hotel is a reliable midrange choice.

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