Middle East - Anthony Ham [128]
Midrange
El-Fayrouz Hotel (Map; 231 2709; www.elfayrouz.com; Al-Gezira; s E£80/120, d E£120-150; ) This pink monolith brandishes arabesque arches and sleeping quarters, though views are at a premium. While the regular rooms are nothing to write home about, the two recently completed rooftop doubles – harbouring tall, brightly painted domed ceilingsand lovingly adorned throughout – are where we’d put our money.
Nour el-Gourna (Map; 231 1430; www.nourelgournahotel.com; Gurna; s E£100-150, d E£150-300; ) Natural materials abound in this mud-brick, thatch-roofed little hotel opposite the Antiquities Inspectorate office. Rooms are stylishly decorated (some even have air-con) and there’s a great shaded and cushioned indoor/outdoor restaurant serving food made from home-grown ingredients.
Nour al-Balad (Map; 206 0111, 010 129 5812; Kom Lolah; s/d E£150/200) We absolutely love this bucolic, boutique hotel getaway. Hidden among greenery in the quaint village of Kom Lolah, this unique building flaunts its extensive and creative use of natural materials throughout. Here, trees sprout from mud-brick hallways open to the sky and light wells lead to tiny indoor courtyards. The generous rooms are super-cosy inside, using curved nooks in the mud walls to house lamps and crafty knick-knacks. There are both indoor and outdoor eating areas and the whole venture has an intimate and friendly vibe.
Amon Hotel (Map; 231 0912; www.amon-hotel-luxor.com; Al-Gezira; s/d €22/29, without bathroom €18/25; ) This family-run place is a favourite haunt of foreign archaeological missions. It dishes up great food, friendly service and speck-less rooms for reasonable prices. Comfortable rooms in the new wing have private bathrooms and balconies overlooking the attractive central courtyard garden. Five old-wing rooms have air-con, and some also have private bathrooms. The triple rooms on the roof terrace of the old wing boast breathtaking 360-degree views over to the Theban Hills and East Bank.
El-Nakhil Hotel (Map; /fax 231 3922; www.el-nakhil.com; Al-Gezira; s/d €20/30; ) New on the hotel scene, this swish and attractive hotel presents an array of well-appointed rooms, including garden villas modelled on traditional Nubian abodes and a few dome-roofed numbers. You can get views either of the Nile or of rolling wheat fields, though their top-floor restaurant has vistas of both.
Top End
Al-Moudira (off Map; 012 3251 307; www.moudira.com; Daba’iyya; r/ste €180/230; ) Built to resemble a Damascene courtyard house, this gorgeous hotel features luxurious rooms, whimsical interiors, a wonderful pool area and a stylish bar and restaurant. Some guests revel in its seclusion (it’s a 15-minute taxi ride from the ferry landing), others end up feeling as if they’re trapped in a gilded cage. We’re of the former opinion: highly recommended.
Flats in Luxor ( 010 356 4540; www.flatsinluxor.co.uk; per week from US$330; ) If you’re staying a week or more in Luxor, then renting one of these impressive flats could be for you. The main flats are located between Al-Gezira and New Gurna, are run by a British–Egyptian couple and feature three bedrooms (sleeping six), large sitting/dining areas, satellite TV and fully equipped kitchens. The two upper-floor flats have balconies with views over to the Theban Hills. There’s a panoramic roof terrace with a pool table and sun lounges, and a downstairs area with a pool and Jacuzzi.
Eating
East Bank
Chez Omar (Map; 236 7678; Midan Yousef Hassan; salads E£3.50, mains E£15; 24hr) With both indoor seating and street-side tables near a small green midan, relaxed Chez Omar is a pleasant spot for a casual meal. The menu plays it pretty safe with modest Egyptian dishes, including kebabs and pigeon. With a nudge-nudge and a wink-wink, you can get Stella here for E£12.
Lotus Restaurant (Map; 238 0419; Sharia As-Souq; ) For some great people observation with your dinner conversation, this spotless restaurant on the 1st-floor above the souq is a sure bet. The Egyptian dishes are dependable –