Middle East - Anthony Ham [132]
In theory, there’s a train from Luxor to Al-Kharga every Thursday at around 7am (E£11/10.25 in 2nd/3rd class, at least eight to 10 hours). In practice, full solar eclipses appear more frequently than this train.
Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Luxor International Airport ( 237 4655) is 7km east of town. A taxi will cost around E£30 to E£40 to East Bank destinations and E£70 to E£90 to West Bank destinations. There are no buses between the airport and town.
Bicycle
Easily the most pleasant way to get around both the East and West Banks, bicycles can be rented from most hotels for around E£10 to E£15. Be sure to check the roadworthiness of your two-wheeled steed, and take plenty of water if you plan on cycling in the heat of the day. It’s no problem to take a bicycle on the ferry connecting the East and West Banks.
calèche
The most interesting way to get around town is by horse and carriage, called a calèche or hantour. Rates range from E£20 to E£50 per hour and are subject to haggling, bickering and – occasionally – yelling. You can usually bargain a short trip down to E£10. Be sure to agree on the price in Egyptian pounds, or you may subsequently be told to pay in British pounds or, more interestingly, the fictional ‘Nubian’ pounds (which are, naturally, worth more than their Egyptian equivalent).
Ferry & Boat
Regular baladi (municipal) ferries carry passengers between the East and West Banks. You’ll find the East Bank stop down a flight of stone stairs in front of the Luxor Temple, and the West Bank stop in front of the dusty car park where the pick-ups congregate. A ticket costs E£1 each way. Private launches charge E£5 each way for the same trip.
Pick-Up
On the West Bank, colourful pick-up trucks shuttle passengers from the ferry dock to various destinations for 25pt. To catch one, you flag it down from the side of the street; when you want to alight, push the bell on the inside of the partition between the driver and passengers. You can also hire one of these pick-ups as a private taxi for E£5.
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NORTH OF LUXOR
Dendara
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The wonderfully preserved Temple of Hathor (adult/student E£25/15; 7am-6pm) at Dendara is one of the most impressive temples in Egypt. Built at the very end of the Pharaonic period, its main building is still virtually intact, with a great stone roof and columns, dark chambers, underground crypts and twisting staircases, all carved with hieroglyphs. Hathor, the goddess of pleasure and love, is figured on the 24 columns of the Outer Hypostyle Hall, and on the walls are scenes of Roman emperors as pharaohs. The views from the roof are magnificent.
Dendara is 4km southwest of Qena on the west side of the Nile and an easy day trip from Luxor.
The tourist police actively discourage independent travel to Dendara, preferring travellers to take a day cruise from Luxor, or to travel by taxi or tour bus in the daily 8am and 2pm convoys. A taxi from Luxor to Dendara return will cost E£160 to E£220. If you decide to try your luck getting here under your own steam, your best bet is the bus to Qena, and a taxi from there to the site (E£20 to E£30 return). You may have to put up with a tourist police escort. Click here for details.
Novotel’s MS Le Lotus ( 238 0925; h1083@accor-hotels.com; adult/child E£355/177) cruises to Dendara on Sunday, Tuesday and Friday during the winter tourist season, leaving at 7am. Tickets include lunch and entry fees.
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SOUTH OF LUXOR
Esna
The hypostyle hall, with its 24 columns still supporting a roof, is all that remains of the Temple of Khnum (adult/student E£15/10; 6am-4pm Oct-May, 6am-5pm Jun-Sep), constructed by Egypt’s Ptolemaic rulers. Dedicated to the ram-headed creator god who fashioned humankind on his potter’s wheel using Nile clay, its pillars are decorated with hieroglyphic accounts of temple ceremonies.