Middle East - Anthony Ham [136]
Orchida St George (Map; 231 5997; www.orchida-sg-hotel.com; 9 Sharia Mohammed Khalid; s US$25-35, d US$35-45; ) In a quiet spot well off the main drag, the tidy and slightly tacky rooms here aim for homely comfort rather than style. The pricier abodes have large balconies to appreciate the great views from here and the keen management seems amenable to giving discounts.
Cleopatra Hotel (Map; 231 4001/3/4; fax 231 4002; Sharia as-Souq; s/d US$47/59; ) A dependable midrange option, this attractive hotel hovers right over the main souq. With a spacious and elegant foyer, inside the Cleopatra plays it safe with unpretentious, trim rooms offering satellite TV and private bathrooms. The small rooftop pool is a nice bonus.
Marhaba Palace Hotel (Map; 233 0102/4; www.marhaba-aswan.com; Corniche el-Nil; s US$56-83, d US$88-99; ) The spiffy Marahaba leaves much of its midrange competition in the Aswan dust. The rooms here are top notch: bright, modern, fastidiously clean and attractively finished in light-coloured pine furniture (IKEA eat your heart out). Throw in a roof terrace with Nile views, a fitness centre and spa and – drum roll – we have a winner.
Basma Hotel (Map; 231 0901; www.basmahotel.com; Sharia Abtal at-Tahrir; s/d US$120/165; ) Concrete reigns supreme at this shipshape four-star hotel, opposite the Nubia Museum. Basma has a neat garden, a huge pool as well as enticing Nile views, especially from the terrace rooms at the end of the building. Breakfast is extra.
Movenpick Resort Aswan (Map; 230 3455; www.moevenpick-aswan.com; s/d from US$130/150; ) Fresh from a whopping US$15 million facelift, and with its major competition the Old Cataract closed for renovations, this five-star resort is easily the best place to bed down in Aswan. Ignore the ugly ’80s concrete tower: inside, the contemporary, minimalist decor is slick if not downright stylish. The hotel has all the usual amenities, including a massive pool, restaurants and a funky bar that wouldn’t be out of place in New York’s hippest hangouts. It’s located on Elephantine Island with a free 24-hour ferry shuttling guests to and from the mainland.
Isis Island Hotel (Map; 231 7400; www.pyramisa egypt.com; Isis Island; s/d from US$147/190; ) Set on its own private island (reachable by a free ferry), this pink monolith of a hotel looks like it escaped from Barbie’s house-set collection. The rooms here are perfectly comfortable, though more chintzy than glamorous, and all dish up great vistas over the Nile. The hotel is a big hit with tour groups and is set among manicured lawns. It sports a massive pool with swim-up bar, mini-golf for the kiddies, a gym, spa and wi-fi.
Eating
Nubian House Restaurant (off Map; 232 6226; mezze E£4-5, mains E£7-20) The afternoon views of the First Cataract from the terrace of this chilled and friendly eatery are utterly breathtaking and shouldn’t be missed. As well as serving authentic Nubian dishes, it’s equally welcoming to guests who come to linger over a tea (E£4) and a sheesha (E£3). Be warned that gaggles of tour groups often book out the tables with the best views. To get here, follow the road from the Basma Hotel and veer right after 15 minutes, when it comes to a fork past a development of upmarket housing. Don’t attempt the walk at night – catch a taxi.
Shawish (Map; Sharia as-Souq; set meal E£7) This hole-in-the-wall eatery swarms with famished locals come chow time. The set meals are finger-licking good and comprise meat or chicken and rice, salad, bread, vegies, soup and the best damned tahina sauce this side of Lake Nasser. Best of all, it will barely make a dent in your wallet at E£7. It’s down a blind alley of the main souq.
Panorama Restaurant (Map; 230 6169; Corniche el-Nil; mains E£8-15) Creaking under the weight of its arabesque trinket collection, this is one of the most atmospheric eateries along Aswan’s Nile. Serving up fish tagen (E£17) as well as a wide range of herbal and medicinal