Middle East - Anthony Ham [143]
Further north, the change in the desert floor from beige to black signals the beginning of the Black Desert (Sahara Suda). Here, layers of mountain-eroded black powder and rubble lie strewn all over the sandy earth. The landscape here stands in stark contrast to the nearby White Desert.
Only 4WD vehicles can enter deep into the deserts, so you’ll need to arrange a tour to get the most out of your visit. Though closer to Farafra Oasis, Bahariya Oasis (see below) is the most popular jumping off-point into these areas and has hundreds of eager tour operators offering overnight adventures in the sand. For an overnight camping trip, expect to pay anywhere between E£150 to E£400 per day.
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Sleeping & Eating
Al-Waha Hotel ( 016 209 3224, 012 720 0387; wahafarafra@yahoo.com; d with/without bathroom E£45/35) A small, primitive hotel opposite Badr’s Museum, Al-Waha has basal two- and three-bed rooms with barely acceptable shared bathrooms. Frills are definitely in short supply here.
Al-Badawiya Safari & Hotel ( 751 0060, 012 214 8343; www.badawiya.com; s/d US$22/32, s/d villa with air-con US$39/50; ) The Ali brothers dominate Farafra tourism with their massive hotel and slick safari outfit. Al-Badawiya has a wide choice of stylishly designed and traditionally themed rooms and is dotted with cushioned sitting areas, has a refreshing pool, and parades more than its fair share of arches and domes. Breakfast costs E£20. Camel and jeep trips into the Western Desert are arranged from here.
Dining choices are limited. The restaurant in the Al-Badawiya Hotel (meals E£25-50) serves meals and has a solid reputation. You’ll find a shack on the main road called Al-Tamawy Restaurant (mains E£2-10) that serves up tea and staples at a few tables. Alcohol isn’t available in Farafra.
Getting There & Away
Buses travel to Cairo (E£46, eight to 10 hours) via Bahariya (E£20, 2½ hours) daily at 10am and 10pm. Buses coming from Cairo travel on to Dakhla (E£20, 4½ hours, two daily) and pass by at around 1pm and 2pm. Buses leave from outside the shops at the Dakhla end of the main street. Tickets are issued on board.
Occasional microbuses travel to Dakhla and Bahariya for the same prices.
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BAHARIYA OASIS
02
Bahariya is the Western Desert’s most bustling and visited oasis. Set among hills and dotted with innumerable palms and springs, Bahariya is also the most convenient jumping-off point for the White and Black Deserts (see boxed text, above). Be warned that there is ferocious competition among tour guides offering trips into the deserts. It might be helpful to speak to your hotel or contact the tourist office for a list of reputable guides.
Buses will drop you at Bawiti, the dusty main village. Attractions include the Temple of Alexander, 26th-dynasty tombs at Qarat Qasr Salim and the 10 famous Greco-Roman Golden Mummies on show near the Antiquities Inspectorate Ticket Office (admission to 6 sites adult/student E£35/25; 8.30am-4pm), just south of the main road in Bawiti.
Information
The tourist office ( 3847 3900; Main St, Bawiti; 8am-2pm & 7-9pm Sat-Thu) is on the town’s main roundabout. Helpful office manager Mohamed Abd el-Kader can also be contacted on his mobile ( 012 373 6567). You can get online at M&N Internet (per hr E£10; 8.30am-9.30pm Sat-Thu), on the main road near Popular restaurant. The National Bank of Development ( 8am-2pm Sun-Thu), in the first street on the right after the tourist office, has no ATM but will change money (though not travellers cheques).
Sleeping & Eating
Desert Safari Home ( 3847 1321, 012 731 3908; www.desert-safari-home.com; dm E£15, s/d E£50/65, with air-con E£80/120, without bathroom E£35/50; ) The friendly family that runs this guesthouse looks ready to sign your adoption papers the minute you walk in the