Middle East - Anthony Ham [160]
Inmo Divers Home ( 364 0370; www.inmodivers.de; Mashraba; s/d US$37/46; ) Though you don’t have to be a diver to stay at this excellent, long-standing German-run resort, it will definitely help if you want to have something to chat about with fellow guests. Rooms are comfortable, attractively decorated and very orderly, with the architectural style delivering plenty of polished wood and white-domed goodness. The dive centre here has a solid reputation and the children’s playground makes it a hit with families.
Christina Beach Palace ( 364 0390; www.christinahotels.com; Mashraba; s/d €32/40; ) We are rather partial to the whitewashed rooms here, all finished with curving balconies, lots of glistening wood and neat spiral staircases. Inside, the rooms are very comfy and continue the polished wood theme. You can pay €4 extra for air-con.
Nesima Resort ( 364 0320; www.nesima-resort.com; Mashraba; s/d €44/57; ) A solid midrange choice, popular Nesima has oodles of garden green and shady walkways. The place has a slightly more intimate feel than most and makes good use of its curved archways and high domed ceilings. Rooms are dark and cool, but kind of cosy and helped along by pretty decorations and arty touches. The beachside pool is very Club Med.
Hilton Dahab Resort ( 364 0310; www.hilton.com; Dahab City; r from US$100; ) Far away from the Assalah action, this was the first big-spending resort to see the potential in Dahab’s shiny shores. Designed around a garden-and-lagoon concept, it manages to retain a classy and tranquil atmosphere. Leisure facilities are impressive: a large pool area, a sand beach on the (real) lagoon where you can windsurf, a kids’ club and the highly regarded Sinai Divers Dive Centre. Rooms are extremely comfortable and the suites are stocked with hammock-equipped terraces.
Eating
The long curve of Dahab Bay is a string of waterside restaurants eagerly vying for tourist custom. It’s hard to recommend one over the other: they typically have the same slightly pricey menu of passable food – though they do make up for it in atmosphere with groovy cushioned seats, mood lighting and wafting, funky tunes. Best bet is to partake in the traditional Dahab evening stroll to find a place that tickles your fancy. The restaurants mentioned below stand out from the crowd.
El Sokaria ( 364 0459; Mashraba; mains E£8-25; 24hr) Along the main road in Mashraba, this friendly local establishment dishes up superb value by Dahab standards. Expect Egyptian usuals, where breakfasts are cheap and filling (E£7 to E£10), and the pizzas are top-notch (E£12 to E£20) – ask for them ‘Italian style’.
Carm Inn ( 364 1300; Masbat; mains E£18-60; ) While not right on the water, this busy and snug place is tastefully bedecked in natural materials and abundant greenery. The inventive list of dishes strays well off the usual Dahab menu path, preparing Indonesian, Thai, Italian and Moroccan victuals as well as heaps of vegie options. Healthy eating is the call of the day; everything is made fresh to order from local ingredients (and hence may take a while to prepare). Bonus: the milkshakes here (E£9.50) are the best in town – trust us on this one.
Al Yousef (Assalah; mains E£20-40) One of several fish joints lining the main market square in the town of Assalah, a few kilometres north of the bay, this is the place to come for the best and cheapest seafood in Dahab. Period. Choose your fish from the fishmongers next door (where most restaurants also get their goods), grab a cold Stella (E£7) from the nearby Drinkies shop, and plop down on their streetside tables awaiting your marine-morsel delights.
Nirvana ( 012 424 6762; Mashraba; mains E£20-45) Don’t go past Nirvana without sampling some of the most authentic Indian food in Egypt. You’ll love the big range of curries and usuals like paratha, samosas and naan, but we’ll bet our underpants that it’s their phenomenal masala chai (spiced Indian tea; E£5) that will have you coming