Middle East - Anthony Ham [171]
If you don’t have a multiple-entry visa, it’s possible to get a re-entry visa that’s valid to the expiry date of your visa and any extensions. Re-entry visas for one/two/several entries cost less than US$3.
Return to beginning of chapter
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Egypt is a conservative society and a woman’s sexuality is, by and large, controlled by her family. Not only are most Western women outside these strictures but, thanks to a steady diet of Western films and soap operas, they are perceived as sexually voracious and available. The comparatively liberal behaviour of some tourists reinforces these prejudices.
As a result, while the country is generally safe for women, hassling is more or less constant. Sometimes it is in the form of hissing or barely audible whispers; usually it is a lewd phrase. Very occasionally there is physical harassment. Rape is rare. Commonsense tips to avoid problems include wearing a wedding ring, dressing conservatively (ie no shorts, tank tops or above-the-knee skirts except in beach resorts), ignoring verbal comments, trying to sit beside women on public transport and avoiding eye-contact with men unless you know them. Take care not to get yourself into a situation of close proximity with men and stay alert in large crowds, particularly at moulids (religious festivals).
A couple of useful Arabic phrases for getting rid of unwanted attention are: la tilmasni (don’t touch me); ihtirim nafsak (behave yourself); or haasib eedak (watch your hand). Swearing at would-be Romeos will only make matters worse.
Return to beginning of chapter
TRANSPORT IN EGYPT
Return to beginning of chapter
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Entering Egypt
If you enter the country via Cairo airport, there are a few formalities. After walking past the dusty-looking duty-free shops you’ll come to a row of exchange booths, including a Thomas Cook booth. If you haven’t already organised a visa, you’ll need to pay US$15 or €15 here to receive a visa stamp. You then fill in one of the pink forms available on the benches in front of the immigration officials before queuing to be processed.
Air
Egypt has a few airports, but only seven are international ports of entry: Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor, Aswan, Hurghada, Sharm el-Sheikh and Marsa Alam. Most air travellers enter Egypt through Cairo, Alexandria or Sharm el-Sheikh. The other airports tend to be used by charter and package-deal flights only.
Egypt’s international and national carrier is EgyptAir ( 0900 70000; www.egyptairm.com.eg; 8am-8pm), though its service isn’t particularly good and its fleet is in need of an upgrade. You’ll do better flying internationally with a different airline.
* * *
DEPARTURE TAX
If you’re leaving Egypt by air your departure tax will usually have been prepaid with your ticket. If you’re departing by land, you’ll need to pay E£2 (travellers who entered Egypt on a Sinai-only visa are exempt).
* * *
Air tickets bought in Egypt are subject to hefty government taxes, which make them extremely expensive. Always try to fly in on a return or onward ticket.
Land
Egypt has land borders with Israel and the Palestinian Territories, Libya and Sudan, but for the latter there is no open crossing point. The only way to travel between Egypt and Sudan is to fly or take the Wadi Halfa ferry (Click here).
Note that almost all international bus and ferry tickets must be paid for in US dollars.
Israel & the Palestinian Territories
There are officially two border crossings with Israel: Rafah and Taba.
Rafah
At the time of research, the Rafah border crossing, which services a direct route from Cairo to Tel Aviv through the Gaza Strip, was closed to all independent travellers. While the border is now jointly policed by the Palestinian Authority and the Egyptian government, the political situation in the area is strained to say the least. Foreigners are unlikely to be able to use the border crossing in the near future.
Taba
This border crossing is used for the vast majority of travel between Egypt