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Middle East - Anthony Ham [174]

By Root 1956 0
that petrol stations are not always plentiful; when you see one, fill up.

The official speed limit outside Cairo is 90km/h and 100km/h on major motorways. If you are caught speeding, your driving licence will be confiscated and you will have to pick it up (and pay a fine) at the nearest traffic police station several days later. Roads throughout the country have checkpoints, so make sure you have all of your documents with you, including your passport.

Several car-hire agencies have offices around Egypt, particularly around touristy resorts like Sharm el-Sheikh or Hurghada. The following are all found in Cairo.

Avis (www.avisegypt.com) Airport ( 02-2265 4249); Nile Hilton (Map; 02-2579 2400; Corniche el-Nil, Downtown)

Budget (www.budget.com) Airport Terminal 2 02-2265 2395)

Europcar (www.europcar.co.eg) Airport Terminal 1 & 2 ( 02-2267 2439); Heliopolis Sheraton ( 02-2267 1815; 6M, 1226 Sq, behind Florida Mall)

Hertz (www.hertzegypt.com) Airport Terminal 2 ( 02-2265 2430); Ramses Hilton (Map; 02-2575 8914; Corniche el-Nil, Downtown)

Their rates match international charges and finding a cheap deal with local dealers is virtually impossible. You are much better off organising cheap car hire via the web before you arrive in Egypt.

As a rough guide, rates are around US$50 a day for a small Toyota (100km included, US$0.25 per kilometre after this) to US$90 a day for a Cherokee 4WD (US$0.40 for the extra kilometres). Note that this doesn’t include taxes.

Local Transport

Travelling by servees (service taxis) is one of the fastest ways to get from city to city. Service taxis are either microbuses or big Peugeot 504 cars that run intercity routes. Drivers congregate near bus and train stations and tout for passengers by shouting their destination. When the car’s full, it’s off. A driver won’t leave before his car is full unless you and/or the other passengers pay for all of the seats.

Train

Although trains travel along more than 5000km of track to almost every major city and town in Egypt, the system is badly in need of modernisation (it’s a relic of the British occupation) and most services are grimy and battered and a poor second option to the deluxe buses. The exceptions are some of the trains to Alexandria and the comfy tourist and sleeping trains down to Luxor and Aswan – on these routes the train actually is the preferred option rather than the bus. For more info, you can try the government’s irregularly working website www.egyptrail.gov.eg.

Students with an ISIC card can get discounts of about 33% on all fares except the sleeping-car services.


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Iraq


* * *


WARNING

CLIMATE

HISTORY

THE CULTURE

RELIGION

ENVIRONMENT

BAGHDAD

HISTORY

ORIENTATION

SIGHTS

SLEEPING & EATING

SOUTHERN IRAQ

BABYLON

KARBALA

NAJAF

UR

BASRA

NORTHERN IRAQ

KIRKUK

MOSUL

IRAQI KURDISTAN

ZAKHO

DOHUK

LALISH

AMADIYA

SULAV

BARZAN

AKRE

GALI ALI BEG & THE HAMILTON ROAD

SHAQLAWA

ERBIL

AROUND ERBIL

DUKAN

SULAYMANIYAH

AHMADAWA

HALABJA

IRAQ DIRECTORY

ACCOMMODATION

BUSINESS HOURS

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

ELECTRICITY

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS

HOLIDAYS

INTERNET ACCESS

INTERNET RESOURCES

LANGUAGE

MONEY

POST

TELEPHONE

TOILETS

WOMEN TRAVELLERS

VISAS

TRANSPORT IN IRAQ

GETTING THERE & AWAY

GETTING AROUND

* * *

Torn between its glorious past as the cradle of civilisation and the turmoil of its recent bloody history, Iraq is a country of contradictions. It is the birthplace of writing, thus beginning the recorded history of the human race. It is the legendary home of the Garden of Eden, the Tower of Babel, Hanging Gardens of Babylon and the Epic of Gilgamesh. But it is also a place of death and unimaginable violence.

Ancient Iraq was known as Mesopotamia, from the Greek meaning ‘land between two rivers’. It was here that humans first began to cultivate their land in the fertile valleys between the mighty Tigris and Euphrates Rivers. The Sumerians, the world’s first great civilisation, invented written communication and the wheel, and refined agriculture,

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