Middle East - Anthony Ham [176]
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Staying Safe
No visit to Iraq is without risk. But there are steps you can take to minimise that risk.
You are the only one responsible for your security, and this should never be delegated to anyone else. Preparing for travelling or working in Iraq is critical. Even for the most seasoned, independent traveller, Iraq can be an assault on the norms. It is essential to take the time to learn about the country, culture, customs and current information on the security situation.
Military and security experts stress the need to maintain ‘situational awareness’. In this case, information will be your greatest asset. The situation in Iraq can change in an instant. Keep abreast of the news from Iraq before and during your trip. For a list of good sources, Click here. Register your whereabouts with your country’s embassy in Baghdad. Keep in regular contact with family and friends via the internet or phone.
Avoid any place that might present an attractive target to terrorists such as military bases, government buildings and large crowds. When travelling by road, it is extremely important that your vehicle not come too close to any US or coalition military convoy. They are the primary targets of suicide car bombs and IEDs. Coalition soldiers may shoot vehicles that approach too close without warning. Never attempt or allow your driver to overtake these convoys – regardless of how slow they are moving.
In Iraqi Kurdistan, land mines pose the biggest danger. Decades of war and internal conflicts have left Iraq littered with mines and unexploded ordnance (UXO), particularly along the northern Iraq–Iran border. Limit your risk by sticking to paved and hard surfaces. When travelling by road, stay on the road even when taking a toilet break. Stay away from unused roads, paths, irrigation canals and culverts. Some minefields are marked by red triangle signs bearing a skull and crossbones. Others are marked by simple piles of rocks painted red, but most are unidentified. When in doubt, go back – land mines are laid to be invisible.
Always follow the instructions issued by military, police, security and border control officials. In Iraqi Kurdistan, Peshmerga (Iraqi Kurdistan’s army) forces maintain strict control over their tranquil piece of the country. Checkpoints and random stops by plain-clothed agents are common. Some security officials are more suspicious of outsiders than others (our author was briefly detained twice). If you are stopped or detained, remain calm and composed. It’s a good idea to have the name and phone number of an Iraqi Kurd who can vouch for you.
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CLIMATE
Iraq’s climate is unforgiving. Summers in central and southern Iraq are brutally hot and dry. The average summer (May to September) temperature in Baghdad is 34°C and frequently hits 50°C. In southern Iraq, the stifling heat is made even worse by the unbearable humidity. The cool mountains of northern Iraq offer the only respite during summer months. Blinding sandstorms are common in central and southern Iraq. Winters can be cold and wet. The average winter temperature in Baghdad is 11°C. Heavy snowfalls and below-freezing temperatures are common in the Kurdish provinces. Nationwide, the most comfortable months are April and October.
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HISTORY
Ancient Mesopotamia
Iraq’s story begins with the Sumerians who flourished in the rich agricultural lands surrounding the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers from around 4000 BC. In 1750 BC, Hammurabi seized power and went on to dominate the annals of the Babylonian empire. He developed the Code of Hammurabi, the first written codes of law in recorded history. Despite constant attacks from the Hittites and other neighbouring powers, Babylon would dominate the region until the