Middle East - Anthony Ham [184]
In March 1991, Saddam cracked down on Karbala to punish Shiites for rebelling against his regime. Hundreds of people were killed and the shrines were heavily damaged. Since 2003, terrorists have repeatedly bombed Karbala. On the 2004 Day of Ashura, nearly 200 pilgrims were killed in a series of attacks. The danger has not stopped pilgrims from coming, but it remains unsafe for tourists.
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NAJAF
033 / pop 506,000
The holy Shiite city of Najaf, 160km south of Baghdad, was once a major centre of learning with many madrassas (religious schools) and libraries. In the middle of the city stands the Shrine of Ali ibn Abi Talib (AD 600–61), who was the cousin and son-in-law of the Prophet Mohammed. It’s a breathtaking mosque covered in gold, with two 35m-high golden minarets. The other major attraction is the Wadi al-Salam Cemetery, the largest cemetery in the world. Both attract millions of pilgrims every year. In July 2008, Najaf opened a new US$250 million international airport with hopes of attracting more pious visitors.
Najaf is also the centre of Shiite political power in Iraq. It is the home of the Grand Ayatollah Ali Sistani, the most influential religious and political leader for Shiite Muslims. Radical cleric Muqtada al-Sadr and his Mahdi Army occupied Najaf in 2004, culminating in a three-week battle with US forces in the cemetery until Sistani brokered a cease-fire.
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UR
The ancient Sumerian city of Ur, 15km south of Nasiriyya, is one of the most impressive archaeological sites in Iraq. Some believe it is the Ur of the Chaldees mentioned in the Bible as the birthplace of Abraham.
Ur dates back to at least 4000 BC but reached its heyday during the third and last Sumerian dynasty (2112–2004 BC). The dynasty’s founder, Ur Namma, built the Great Ziggurat of Ur to honour the Sumerian moon god Nanna. It was restored in the 6th century BC by Nebuchadnezzar II and remains one of the finest and best-preserved ziggurats still standing. Ur is now located within the perimeters of a coalition military base and is off limits to visitors.
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BASRA
Pop 1.76 million
Iraq’s third-largest city, 550km southeast of Baghdad, was once known as the ‘Venice of the Middle East’ for its canal waterways and location on the Shatt al-Arab river. The fictional voyages of Sinbad the Sailor began here, but modern reality is less inspiring.
Basra was founded by caliph Omar bin Khattab in AD 637 as a military base. It rapidly became the hub of the Arab sea trade to points as far as China. Its strategic position made it a repeated target of Mongol, Persian and Turk conquerors. The British captured Basra during WWI and modernised its port. After a brief period of peace, the city was heavily damaged during the 1980s Iran-Iraq war.
In the 2003 invasion, the British returned to Basra, where they have repeatedly clashed with Shiite militias and insurgents. In December 2007, the British relinquished the city to Iraqi officials. Chaos followed as Islamic fundamentalists battled each other for control of the city. In March 2008, Iraqi forces stormed Basra to drive out the Shiite militias. At least 200 people were killed in the fighting. More worrisome, at least 1300 Iraqi soldiers and police deserted or refused to fight. Basra’s security has improved, but remains a dangerous city.
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NORTHERN IRAQ
Northern Iraq is caught between a rock and a hard place. To its south lies the volatile Sunni Triangle; to the north and east lies the Kurdish Regional Government (KRG), which is slowly annexing Arab lands into its territory. It is home to a complicated ethnic mix of Arabs, Christians, Kurds and smaller minorities who have lived together peacefully for centuries – until now. While security has improved in central and southern Iraq since 2007, northern Iraq has only gotten worse. The two major cities, Mosul and Kirkuk, are no-go areas. It’s a shame,