Middle East - Anthony Ham [202]
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MONEY
With a few rare exceptions, Iraq is a cash country. You should plan to bring enough cash – preferably US dollars – to last your entire trip.
The official unit of currency is the Iraqi Dinar (ID). Current banknotes include 50, 250, 500, 1000, 5000, 10,000 and 25,000 dinars. Coins are no longer used. US dollars are also widely accepted. Businesses often list prices in both dinars and dollars. US notes should be undamaged and printed after 2003.
In Iraqi Kurdistan, dollars, euros, British pounds and Turkish lira can usually be changed quite easily. Anything else and you’re pushing your luck. Money can be changed in banks, but for the best exchange rate, hit one of the street-corner exchange stands and look for the guys holding giant wads of cash. Current exchange rates are posted on finance.yahoo.com/currency.
The following were official bank rates at the time of writing:
ATMs are starting to pop up, but at the time of writing, most only work for accounts held in Iraq. Credit cards and travellers cheques are even more useless. Many banks now offer international transfers. MoneyGram and Western Union money wire services can be found in Baghdad, Erbil and also in Sulaymaniyah.
Tipping & Bargaining
As in other parts of the Middle East, tipping, or baksheesh, is a fact of life in Iraq. Waiters and taxi drivers expect 10%. Bargaining is expected in bazaars, and tolerated by taxi drivers and family-run hotels and shops.
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POST
In Iraqi Kurdistan, the postal service is fast, cheap and reliable. It costs ID1000 to mail a postcard to Europe and ID1500 to Australasia and North America. Postcards take four or five days to get to Europe, and about a week to 10 days to Australia and the USA.
In Arab Iraq, forget about it.
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TELEPHONE
The country code for Iraq is 964, followed by the local area code (minus the zero), then the subscriber number. Due to the poor state of Iraq’s landline telephones, most residents and businesses rely on mobile phones. Considering the mobile phone has only been around since 2003, Iraq has surprisingly reliable and widespread network. The main service providers are Iraqna, AsiaCell and Korek. SIM cards and pay-as-you-go phones are widely available. Pay phones are only common in Sulaymaniyah.
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TOILETS
Most toilets in public places and older hotels are the squat variety. Toilet paper is rarely provided, but readily available in grocery stores and bazaars. Most newer hotels and buildings have Western-style ‘throne’ toilets.
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WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Iraqi Kurdistan is safe for female travellers, and women are generally treated with courtesy and respect. Some women who have recently travelled solo in Iraq have reported that they had no problems. Still, we recommend that it is best to always travel in pairs or groups. As in most parts of the Middle East, it’s important to dress conservatively – no bare shoulders or legs, cleavage or other excessive skin should be on display. Iraqi Kurdistan is a secular society, so there is no need to cover your hair. Western clothing is common throughout Iraq and in liberal Sulaymaniyah, blue jeans and tight tops are de rigueur.
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VISAS
Visas are required for everyone entering Iraq.
The Republic of Iraq issues visas for Arab regions of the country such as Baghdad and Basra, and they are only available to people with official business in the country such as journalists, diplomats, contractors and aid workers. Visas must be obtained