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for 30 years – the direct result of overuse of its main water source, the Jordan River. The dramatic decline in the Dead Sea water level threatens not only Israel, but also Jordan and the Palestinian Territories, and in recognition of this, the three sides have entered into talks on how to reverse the problem. A number of solutions have been proposed, including one long-floated plan to build a canal that would bring water from the Red Sea to the Dead Sea. To get up-to-date on the Dead Sea situation, Click here and visit the Friends of the Earth Middle East’s ‘Save the Dead Sea’ campaign at www.foeme.org.

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FOOD & DRINK

Food is a national obsession on either side of the ‘separation wall’, and the one dish that probably unites the two nations more than any other is the humble hummus. Ask any Israeli or Palestinian who makes the best hummus and you’re likely to instigate a long, animated debate. Ask how they like it best, and you’ll be lectured on the pros and cons of hummus with fuul (fava bean paste), tahina (sesame seed paste), or the version containing soft whole chickpeas, known as masabacha.

Dining out is common for both Israelis and Palestinians. Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and Ramallah are filled with top-end restaurants covering every conceivable cuisine, while even the smallest village will usually have a place or two dispensing the ubiquitous felafel, shwarma, or local specialities.

Vegetarians won’t find it hard to maintain a varied and tasty diet, particularly in Israel where kosher laws dictate that many restaurants eschew meat for a ‘dairy’ menu. Some dishes to watch out for are shakshuka, a rich egg-and-tomato breakfast dish served in a frying pan, the Yemenite weekend specialility jachnun (rolled pastry served with slow-boiled egg, strained tomatoes and fiery zhug (a Yemenite hot pepper and garlic relish), and sabich, a felafel alternative whereby roast aubergine, boiled egg and potato, salads and spicy amba, a mango sauce, are all stuffed into a pita.

A real treat is the variety of juices, which are freshly squeezed and sold at streetside stands almost everywhere. Try pomegranate juice for a vitamin-kick – but watch out for resultant blue-stained teeth. Coffee in all its permutations – instant, cappuccino (afuch in Hebrew) or Turkish (qahwa bi-hel; or in Hebrew, kafé turki) with cardamom – is popular throughout; Cup of Joe, Aroma and Arcaffe are the local chain equivalents of a certain white-and-green worldwide favourite. Tea is a Palestinian favourite, usually with fresh mint (shai bi-naana; or in Hebrew: tey im naana), especially refreshing on a blazing summer’s day.

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THE WORLD ON A PLATE & HEAVEN IN A GLASS

Israel’s culinary scene is blessed with a wide variety of dishes that Jewish immigrants brought with them from all over the world. Look out for these cuisines on your travels through the country; each dish generally costs less than 50NIS.

Persian Try gondi nochodi (vegetarian or chicken balls with chickpeas, served in a soup or with rice) and kroma sabzi (herbed beef with vegetables).

Eastern European Meaty kreplach (similar to dumplings); chopped liver with fried onions, and grilled goose with mashed potatoes and gravy.

Moroccan Meatballs with gravy on rice; chicken with couscous and steamed vegetables, stuffed courgettes, and mossaca (ground meat on a bed of aubergine).

Upper Galilee Arabic Homemade kebabs, stuffed lamb and sinea (ground beef with pine nuts and tahina).

Ethiopian Tibs Wat (beef cooked in tomato and garlic sauce) and huge vegetarian combination plates, perfect for sharing.

Due to a combination of entrepreneurship, expertise and great conditions for growing grapes, Israel is experiencing a rise in independent boutique wineries, spread throughout the country. These guys produce an amazing variety of excellent wines; top wines will come in at well under 100NIS per bottle. Here’s a list of our best wineries:

Zmora Winery (zmorawinery.co.il) Produces full-bodied, powerful and fruity reds; the 2005 shiraz is a top drop.

Vitkin