Middle East - Anthony Ham [219]
At Hurva Sq, east of the Cardo, a graceful brick arch is the most prominent remnant of the Hurva Synagogue (Map), Jerusalem’s main synagogue in the late 19th century. Down a narrow alleyway east of the square is the impressive Wohl Archaeological Museum (Map; 628 8141; admission 15NIS; 9am-5pm Sun-Thu, 9am-1pm Fri), which features a 1st century home and several Herodian archaeological sites, bringing to life the lavish lifestyle enjoyed by residents of this part of Herod’s city.
The iconic Western Wall (Wailing Wall; Map), the only remnant of Judaism’s holiest shrine, was built about 2000 years ago as a simple retaining wall, supporting the Temple Mount upon which stood the Second Temple (the ‘wailing’ moniker stems from the Ottoman period, during which Jews would arrive here to express sorrow over the destruction of the temple). The area immediately in front of the wall now serves as an open-air synagogue; the right side is open to women (who must dress modestly, covering their arms and legs), and the left side to men (who must wear a kippa; paper ones are provided). It’s accessible 24 hours a day, and up-to-the-minute live pictures can be viewed online at www.aish.com/wallcam. Look out for the prayers on slips of paper stuffed into cracks in the wall, which are thought to have a better chance than others of being answered. These days, the faithful – or hopeful – with limited time can send prayers by email, also at www.ai sh.com.
If subterranean is your thing, be sure to head to the Kotel Western Wall Tunnels (Map; 627 1333; www.thekotel.org; adult/child 25/15NIS), an amazing 488m passage dug out by archaeologists that delves down to Jerusalem’s original street level, in an area thought to have been the city’s shopping district. Hour-long tours operate several times daily, but must be booked in advance, preferably about a week ahead.
On the southern side of the Western Wall, the Jerusalem Archaeological Park & Davidson Centre (Map; 627 7550; www.archpark.org.il; Dung Gate; adult/child 30/16NIS; 8am-5pm Sun-Thu) includes an interesting virtual tour of the Temple Mount as it looked 2000 years ago, bringing to life what’s now a collection of ruins.
MUSLIM QUARTER
Running from the Damascus Gate east and southward towards the Temple Mount, this is the most exhilarating, sensory and densely populated area of the Old City, while simultaneously being the most claustrophobic, confusing and crowded. You’ll inevitably get lost in the tangle of trade and teeming humanity, relieved by the tempting aromas emanating from spice shops, coffee corners, bakeries and tiny restaurants. Wander its Mamluk and medieval alleyways, and you’ll be transported back to a different century – if, that is, you can just ignore the children with their flashing, whirring toy guns and the tinny whine of Arabic pop.
St Anne’s Church (Map), near the Lion’s Gate, is perhaps the finest example of Crusader architecture in Jerusalem, and is traditionally thought to have been the home of Joachim and Anne, parents of the Virgin Mary. With perfect acoustics, you’re welcome to burst into song, as long as it’s of the ecclesiastical variety.
The road leading from the Lion’s Gate into the heart of the Old City is known as Via Dolorosa (The Way of Sorrows) or The Stations of the Cross, the route that tradition claims was taken by the condemned Jesus as he lugged his heavy cross to Calvary. At 3pm on Fridays, the Franciscan Fathers lead a solemn procession here, while you’re also likely to encounter groups of Italian or Spanish tourists lugging their own huge (rented) cross up the hill. Explanations on plaques at each of the nine ‘stations’ along the way illuminate the biblical story (the final