Middle East - Anthony Ham [224]
A traveller-recommended company is Tours in English ( 777 0020, 054 693 4433; toursinenglish.com) which runs fascinating, informative ‘alternative’ tours – you guessed it, in English – through the Greater Jerusalem area, as well as on into the West Bank.
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SLEEPING
Most budget choices are located in the Old City, or near Damascus Gate in East Jerusalem. Midrange travellers have many more options in the New and Old Cities, including friendly B&Bs, historic Christian hospices and boutique hotels. Top-end hotels are mostly located in the upscale neighbourhoods of Yemin Moshe and Mamila in the New City, although the city’s best top-end hotel, the American Colony, is a haven in the heart of East Jerusalem.
For a list of decent value B&Bs, check out the website of the Home Accommodation Association of Jerusalem (bnb.co.il).
Old City
BUDGET
Golden Gate Inn (Map; 628 4317; golden gate442000@yahoo.com; 10 Souq Khan al-Zeit St; dm/s/d 30/100/150NIS) Just off a busy souq in the Muslim Quarter, the Golden Gate has all the necessary ingredients for a comfortable stay, including a large kitchen, friendly management and cool rooms protected from the heat and noise by thick walls. It isn’t, however, as jovial and traveller-oriented as other budget options in the area, and has a no-alcohol policy. Dorms do not have private bathrooms, but some other rooms do.
Petra Hostel (Map; 628 6618; www.inisrael.com/petra; Omar Ibn al-Khattab Sq; d with/without bathroom 150/120NIS, roof mattresses/dm without bathroom 5/35NIS; ) Converted from a grand old hotel (which once hosted Mark Twain and Herman Melville), the Petra is a fairly grimy shadow of its former self, but still retains a cheerful atmosphere due to its backpacking guests. Its biggest draw is the convenient Jaffa Gate location and spectacular views over the Old City.
Hebron Youth Hostel (Map; 628 1101; ashraftabasco@hotmail.com; 8 Aqabat at-Takiya St; d with/without bathroom 160/100NIS, dm without bathroom 35NIS; ) This venerable old hostel, with a magnificent stone interior, is buried inside the Muslim Quarter’s Souq Khan al-Zeit. There are lockers to protect your valuables, but beware the hot water - or rather, the potential absence of it – in the winter months.
Citadel Youth Hostel (Map; 628 5253; www.citadelhostel.com; 20 Mark St; d 190-250NIS, without bathroom 110-150NIS, dm without bathroom 40NIS; ) This centuries-old building has a mixed bag of rooms, all nicely decorated in an Arabic style, but those on higher floors get a bit hot in summer months. Travellers consistently praise the super-friendly management; bring your sleeping bag in summer to snooze on the roof, and your laptop to avail of the free wi-fi.
East New Imperial Hotel (Map; 628 2261; Jaffa Gate; s/d/tr US$35/50/75; ) Quirky, antiquated and a little murky in the corners, this rambling, dishevelled old hotel was built in 1885 on the site of Bath Shebiye, where King David supposedly saw the wife of Uriah bathing in a pool. It’s got loads of character, and consequently is one of those places you’ll either love or loathe; don’t count on hot water but do expect a friendly welcome.
MIDRANGE
Lutheran Guest House (Map; 626 6888; www.luth-guesthouse-jerusalem.com; St Mark’s St; s/d/tr from US$44/70/83; ) The historic Lutheran gets our vote for its great views, comfortable rooms, rose garden and medieval kitchen – the perfect place to rustle up a shared banquet and swap Middle Eastern travelling tips. Rates include breakfast.
Christ Church Guest House (Map; 627 7727; www.itac-israel.org; Omar Ibn al-Khattab Sq, Jaffa Gate; s/d US$50/80, extra person US$25) A prime location, relaxed atmosphere and simple, clean rooms