Middle East - Anthony Ham [226]
Return to beginning of chapter
EATING
You’ll never have to look far in Jerusalem to find something to munch; fine and fancy, cheap and cheerful, quick and Kosher, Jerusalem has it all. Most of the finer dining options are spread throughout the New City; eating in the Old City is more about grabbing a bite on the hoof while you’re hitting the sights. For a self-catering extravaganza, visit the Mahane Yehuda Market (Click here).
Old City
For quick eats in the Old City, head straight to the Muslim Quarter, where there are hole-in-the-wall stores aplenty vending felafel, freshly ground coffee, shwarma, cookies and pastries, while informal stalls and stands sell mountains of fresh fruit and vegetables, olives and pickles.
Moses Art Café (Map; 628 0975; Omar Ibn al-Khattab Sq; mains from 35NIS; 7.30am-1am) A friendly and informal Lebanese choice just inside Jaffa Gate; offers good-value steaks, kebabs, hummus and the like.
Armenian Tavern (Map; 627 3854; 79 Armenian Patriarchate Rd; meat mains 35-55NIS; 11am-10.30pm Tue-Sun) Walk down a flight of stairs near Jaffa Gate to find a beautiful stone-and-tile interior complete with a gently splashing fountain. Try the khaghoghi derev, a spiced minced-meat mixture bundled in vine leaves, or the excellent Armenian pizza.
Abu Shukri (Map; 627 1538; 63 Al-Wad Rd; mains from 20NIS; 7am-6pm) If you’re hungry for hummus, jostle for elbow-room at this popular Muslim Quarter joint, near the 5th Station of the Cross, which dishes up hearty portions of the beige stuff to Jews, Christians and Muslims alike.
Pizzeria Basti (Map; 628 4067; 70 Via Dolorosa; pizzas from 25NIS; 7.30am-9pm) Though pizza may not always have been on the menu, a restaurant has graced this spot near the 3rd Station of the Cross for a century, to which photos on the walls attest. Twenty varieties of pizza all make for a good lunchtime carbs boost, before heading back out on the Old City sight-seeing trail.
One ever-popular felafel option is the unnamed stall at the bottom of the steps on the road into the Old City from Damascus Gate, in the narrow frontage between two forking lanes; the crowd outside will ensure you won’t miss it.
New City
The New City offers diners a world of choice, and the places listed here are just a teeny taster of what’s on offer. To find your own dining gems, go awandering: Jaffa Rd has a number of trendy, loungy places; the Mamilla and German Colony districts have lots of delis and informal café stops; Yoel Solomon St has a string of simple, tourist-orientated choices; and Aza Rd hosts some funky places popular with the student population.
1868 (Map; 622 2312; 10 HaMelekh David St; starters 35-70NIS, mains 80-120NIS; noon-midnight) This sophisticated kosher gourmet restaurant is set in one of the oldest buildings in West Jerusalem, built (unsurprisingly) in 1868. Hearty wines complement a menu of succulent lamb chops and roast beef.
Babette’s Waffles (Map; 625 7004; 16 Shamai St; waffles from 20NIS; 8am-10pm Sun-Thu, 8am-2pm Fri) For when the mood for something sweet strikes, this teensy place specialises in heavenly hot chocolate and melt-in-the-mouth waffles.
Topolino (Map; 622 3466; 62 Agrippas St; pasta mains 35-47NIS; 10am-11pm Sun-Thu)For delicious, well-priced and homemade Italian food, look no further than this tiny green-awninged eatery, a few steps away from the Mahane Yehuda Market. The menu changes regularly, but try the heavenly blue cheese ravioli if it’s featuring, or, for something unusual, the cherry ravioli in chilled sheep’s yogurt, with mint and lemon.
Shanti (Map; Nakhalat Shiv’a; 624 3434; mains from 30NIS; lunch-late Sun-Fri) This cosy, wooden pub-type bar-restaurant, hidden away in a cute courtyard, is the place to escape to for a draught beer and a hearty dinner. The spicy