Middle East - Anthony Ham [232]
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NEVE TSEDEK
Cute and characterful Neve Tsedek, with its narrow streets and historic houses, has fast become one of Tel Aviv’s most upmarket neighbourhoods. In the late 19th century it was the choice area for intellectual Jews looking for a prestigious address; nowadays it’s for well-to-do young families and artsy professionals, who you’ll find patronising its cafés, boutiques and bars at all hours of the day. Most of the action takes place on Shabazi St.
The Suzanne Dellal Centre (Map; 510 5656; www.suzannedellal.org.il; 5 Yechieli St), a former school and cultural centre, serves as a venue for festivals, exhibits and cultural events, as well as a relaxing place to look at artistic murals and spend a sunny afternoon. On weekends, you can visit the historic 1887Home of Shimon Rokakh (Map; 516 8042; www.rokach-house.co.il; 36 Rokakh St; admission 10NIS; 10am-4pm Sun-Thu, 10am-2pm Fri & Sat), outlining life in 19th-century Tel Aviv, and a tribute to the man who conceived the building of Tel Aviv. On the same street is the Nahum Gutman Museum (Map; 516 1970; gutmanmuseum.co.il; 21 Rokakh St; adult/child 20/10NIS; 10am-4pm Sun, Mon, Wed & Thu, 10am-7pm Tue, 10am-2pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sat), which displays 200 lively and fanciful works by the 20th-century Israeli artist.
Courses
Tel Aviv’s most popular Hebrew-language program, Gordon Ulpan (Map; 522 3095; hadas.goren@012.net.il; LaSalle 7), charges around 670NIS per month, plus a 70NIS registration fee.
Tel Aviv for Children
If you can drag your little ones away from the beach, there’s lots to keep them occupied in this most child-friendly of cities. For active older kids, the Sportek (Map) has basketball courts, a skate park, mini-golf, a climbing wall (50NIS for three hours) and trampolines. Ultimate Frisbee matches are held here every Friday at 4.45pm and Saturday at 4.30pm. The neighbouring HaYarkon park (Map) has lots of space to play, boats for hire, playgrounds, pony rides and animal enclosures.
The Azrieli Observatory (Map; 608 1179; Azrieli Centre; 22NIS; 10am-8pm Tue-Thu & Sat, 10am-6pm Fri) on the top floor of the shopping centre of the same name, offers great views over Tel Aviv and beyond – on a clear day, you can see well into the West Bank.
More intellectual activities are often on offer at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art (opposite) – give them a call to check what’s on while you’re in town. A great place for lunch with children is the Old Port (Namal; Map), packed with child-friendly restaurants and a couple of playgrounds, as well as a wide and undulating wooden boardwalk on which to let off steam.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Tel Aviv’s lively budget hostels are concentrated near the centre of town, meaning you can spend the day on the beach, pop back for a shower, then head out on foot for the night. Those who prefer a little more serenity may want to consider staying in nearby Jaffa (Click here).
Mugraby Hostel (Map; 510 2443; mugraby-hostel.com; 30 Allenby St; dm €12, s/d from €41/46; ) Cleanliness and colour make up for the slight shabbiness of this place, which has a nice roof for a cold drink. There’s free wi-fi and breakfast is served from 5am, perfect for the early-morning swimmer. Double rooms have air-con and cable TV.
Hayarkon 48 Hostel (Map; 516 8989; hayarkon48.com; 48 HaYarkon St; dm €14; s with/without bathroom €52/46; d with/without bathroom €58/52; ) The best, but pricy, budget option in town, this clean, friendly and colourful hostel sits just two blocks from the beach and has excellent facilities including a kitchen, hot showers and a free breakfast. Booking through its website will net you