Middle East - Anthony Ham [240]
MUSEUMS
The Haifa Art Museum ( 852 3255; haifamuseums.org.il; 26 Shabtai Levi St; adult/senior/child/student 29/14.50/22/22NIS; 10am-4pm Sun-Wed & Sat, 10am-9pm Thu, 10am-1pm Fri) is three museums in one – ancient art, modern art, and music and ethnology. The same ticket (good for three days) also admits you to the following museums, all with the same opening hours as the Art Museum: Haifa City Museum ( 851 2030; 11 Ben-Gurion Ave), with exhibitions by local artists; the wonderful Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art ( 838 3554; 89 HaNassi Ave) and its unique collection of Far Eastern works; and the National Maritime Museum ( 853 6622; 198 Allenby Rd), which presents the history of Mediterranean shipping.
The Clandestine Immigration & Naval Museum ( 853 6249; 204 Allenby Rd; adult/child 10/5NIS; 8.30am-4pm Sun-Thu) is a surprisingly interesting place to brush up on Israel’s naval history and the Zionists’ 1930s and ’40s attempts to migrate into British-blockaded Palestine with its centrepiece boat, the Af-Al-Pi-Chen, which attempted to carry 434 Jewish refugees here in 1947.
If you’re stuck with a very occasional rainy day, a great place to take kids is the hands-on Israel National Museum of Science ( 862 8111; www.madatech.org.il; Technion Bldg, Shmaryahu Levin St, Hadar; over 5s/students 60/30NIS; 9am-4pm Sun-Wed, 9am-8pm Thu, 10am-2pm Fri, 10am-6pm Sat). For a ‘sensory cinema’ experience (allegedly the world’s first and only), pay an extra 20NIS to experience the Cinematrix, suitable for everyone aged over six.
Tours
The Haifa Tourism Development Association ( toll free 1-800-305090, ext 101/102; tour-haifa.co.il; 48 Ben-Gurion Ave) offers a number of tours, including a four-hour walking or bus tour of the city, and a dramatised tour of the German Colony. Drop in, or check out the website for more details. Telephone tour bookings can be made.
Sleeping
Port Inn ( 852 4401; www.portinn.co.il; 34 Jaffa Rd; dm without bathroom 70NIS, s with/without bathroom 180/210NIS, d with/without bathroom 250/300NIS; ) The simply furnished, bright, clean dorms and rooms of the Port Inn make for the most comfortable central budget stay. There’s a kitchen available for use and a nice quiet garden. Dorm beds cost an extra 25NIS if you want breakfast thrown in (not to the bunk, of course); with private rooms, it’s included in the price.
Carmel HI Hostel ( 853 1944; iyha.org.il; dm/s/d US$20/37.50/56; ) Comfortable and friendly, this place is close to the Hof HaCarmel train and bus station, but less convenient for Haifa’s main tourist attractions. Take bus 3 or 114 from the Hof HaCarmel station or bus 43 or 45 from downtown.
St Charles Hospice ( 855 3705; stcharls@netvision.net.il; 105 Jaffa Rd; s/d/tr US$35/60/75) With a lovely garden, this place is owned by the Latin Patriarchate and run by the Catholic Rosary Sisters. Rooms all have fans and private showers and rates include a filling breakfast. The gate is often locked so you’ll need to ring the bell to enter.
Molada Guest House ( 838 7958; rutenberg.org.il; 82 HaNassi Ave; s/d US$60/76; ) Run by the Rutenberg Institute for Youth Education, this welcoming guesthouse has clean, comfortable rooms, some with balconies that offer sea views.
Eating
RESTAURANTS
Hashmura 1872 ( 855 1872; 15 Ben-Gurion Ave; mains 45-105NIS; noon-midnight Sun-Thu, noon-8pm Fri & Sat) Situated in the heart of the German Colony, this place comes with hearty recommendations from both locals and visitors. To start, try the aubergine terrine; for mains, there’s lots of French-style meat and fish dishes, and veggie pasta options. A glass floor reveals the extensive wine cellar in the historic 1872 basement, where there’s also an atmospheric pub.
Jacko Seafood ( 866 8813; 12 Qehilat Saloniki St; mains 65-85NIS; noon-midnight Sun-Thu, noon-8pm Fri & Sat) A reliable seafood option, this place has been offering an excellent variety of fish (including salmon, bream, bass, shark, triggerfish