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By Root 1999 0

Tue, Thu & Fri, 9am-12.30pm Wed & Sat), on the site of the synagogue where the young Jesus is said to have prayed and taught. The attractive St Gabriel’s Greek Orthodox Church (Mary’s Well Sq; 8am-6pm Mon-Sat) lies about 10 minutes’ walk northeast of the basilica, two blocks off Paul VI St. Across Well Sq from here is Mary’s Well (Paul VI St), which the Greek Orthodox Church claims is the site of the Annunciation, and to whose waters some people ascribe healing powers. Beside it, at the Cactus gift shop, is a wonderful Roman bathhouse ( 050 538 4343; admission for a group of up to four 120NIS; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat), which utilised water from Mary’s Well. A 40-minute guided tour of the bathhouse includes excellent commentary and refreshments, including some mighty tasty Turkish coffee.

Those who just can’t imagine Jesus amid Nazareth’s modern bustle may want to head for the worthwhile Nazareth Village ( 645 6042; www.nazarethvillage.com; adults/under 18s 50/22NIS, under 7s free; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat). This nonprofit project, staffed by actors in period clothing, reconstructs everyday life and commerce in the Nazareth of 2000 years ago, yet doesn’t trespass into distressingly tacky theme-park territory. It’s a 15-minute walk due west from the basilica, just beyond Al-Wadi al-Jawani St.

Sleeping

Sisters of Nazareth Convent ( 655 4304; fax 646 0741; dm US$8, s/d US$28/46; ) With dormitories and 30 private rooms, this is a nice, well-furnished and airy choice. Kitchen facilities are available, and private room rates include breakfast. Look for the door marked ‘Réligieuses de Nazareth’, and ring the bell. Reception opens at 4pm and closes at 9.30pm.

Casa Nova Hospice ( 645 6660; fax 657 9630; El-Bishara St; s/d US$30/60; ) Opposite the basilica, the Casa Nova caters mainly to Italian pilgrimage groups; its austerity offset by fantastic Italian food and a heavenly espresso (breakfast and dinner included in room rates). There’s a 10pm curfew, and it’s worth booking in advance to ensure there’s room at the inn.

Fauzi Azar Inn ( 602 0469; fauziazarinn.com; dm/d/tr from 67/400/480NIS; ) Ten rooms in a beautifully restored Old City mansion make this a definite highlight of the city, if not the entire region. Gaze at the frescoes, relax in the cozy courtyard, and check your email with free wi-fi while sipping on a complimentary mint tea. It’s quiet, cool, and relaxing, with owners happy to impart their knowledge of the region and its hiking trails.

Eating

Nazareth’s culinary scene has been gaining ground in recent years, and now has some quite sophisticated local hotspots. For something rather more down to earth, though, the best felafel and shwarma joints are scattered along Paul VI St, especially at the intersection near the tourist office.

Tishreen ( 608 4666; 56 El-Bishara St; mains 35-75NIS; noon-midnight Mon-Sat, 5pm-midnight Sun) Dressed up to resemble a medieval storehouse with antique-lined, straw-encrusted walls, the menu is replete with Middle Eastern fare. Try the excellent muhammar, a sort of Arabic pizza topped with chicken and slices of onion, or the baked aubergine with cheese and pesto, all just 200m southwest of Mary’s Well.

El-Reda ( 608 4404; Albesharah St; mains 40-55NIS; 1pm-2am Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am Sun) Dine on heavenly delights in a century-old restored mansion, with incredible views from the roof terrace and a family-run ambience. Try the roast chicken in yogurt sauce for a particularly lip-smacking luncheon.

Diana ( 657 2919; Paul VI St; mains 55-75NIS; noon-midnight) Considered by locals and tourists alike as one of the best sources of Arabic cuisine in northern Israel, don’t miss a dinner at Diana. Behind the unassuming exterior, you’ll find dozens of delicious mezze to fill you to bursting.

Getting There & Away

From Nazareth Bus Station ( 656 9956; Paul VI St)bus 431 runs hourly to Tiberias (21.50NIS; 45 minutes). Other services include bus 332 to Haifa (22NIS, 45 minutes); bus 343 to Akko (25NIS, one hour); and bus 824 to Tel Aviv (15NIS, 2½ hours) via Afula. To get to Jerusalem, take bus 355 or 356 to Afula