Middle East - Anthony Ham [248]
On Kibbutz Ginosar is the Yigal Allon Centre (Map; 672 1495; adult/child 20/15NIS; 8.30am-5pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-1pm Fri), a museum whose most celebrated exhibit is the skeletal remains of an 8.2m fishing vessel that shrewd tour operators have dubbed ‘the Jesus boat’, dating back to the time of Christ’s ministry.
Tabgha & Capernaum
Generally considered the most beautiful and serene of Christian holy places, Tabgha (Arabic, from the Greek hepta pega, meaning ‘seven springs’) is associated with three separate episodes from the New Testament. Modest dress (no shorts or tank tops) is required, and an attractive lakeside walkway links the Church of the Beatitudes to Capernaum.
The Church of the Beatitudes (Map; 8-11.40am & 2.30-4.40pm), which commemorates the Sermon on the Mount (‘judge not, lest ye be judged’ and other famous lines), sits in a lovely garden about 100m above the lake. The eight Beatitudes of Jesus are pictured in stained glass around the dome. Further on, the altar of the Church of the Multiplication of Loaves & Fishes (Map; 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun), also called the Heptapagon, is thought to include the rock where Jesus laid the five loaves and two fishes that multiplied to feed 5000 faithful listeners. In 1932, excavations uncovered some beautiful mosaic floors, including the topical ‘loaves-and-fishes’ motif. The wonderfully serene Church of the Primacy of St Peter (Map; 8am-4.50pm), with its lovely stained glass, was built by Franciscans in 1933 at Mensa Christi (Christ’s Table), where Jesus and his followers ate fish from a table-like flat rock. In the 4th century, a now-ruined church was constructed here to commemorate the spot where the resurrected Jesus conferred the church leadership on St Peter.
Capernaum (Kfar Nahum; Map; admission 3NIS; 8am-4.40pm) was the home base of Jesus during the most influential period of his Galilean ministry and when he recruited some of his best-known apostles. An octagonal church stands over the ruins of a 3rd- or 4th-century synagogue that was built over his lodgings. The site now hosts a well-labelled museum, operated by the Franciscans.
Buses from Tiberias pass by Capernaum Junction (12NIS, 30 minutes, twice hourly), which is a 5km hike or hitch to any of the major sites.
Eastern Shore
There are plenty of scenic, uncrowded swimming spots along the eastern shore, many backed by campsites (see Sleeping, below). Just park your car or bike, and dip in. If you’re in need of a rush of both water and adrenalin, spend your day slip-sliding away at the Luna Gal Waterpark (Map; 04-667 8000; adult/child 100/80NIS; 10am-5pm Apr-Oct).
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ZIMMER FREI
You can’t come to the north of Israel and not know about ‘zimmers’, those ubiquitous glorified wooden cabins equipped with kitchen corners, hammocks, views and frequently a Jacuzzi, with which Israel is so bountifully blessed (though no one’s exactly sure when the mantle ‘zimmer’ itself was taken up).
Up above the north and northeastern shores of the Sea of Galilee are two popular villages, filled with zimmers, to which weekending Israelis flock in their droves: zen-yoga-yin-and-yang leaning Had Nes to the north, and woodsy, relaxed Ramot, to the northeast. Prices per zimmer vary enormously, but most come in at around the US$100 mark per night, rising sharply at weekends and holidays. Far better value than most of Tiberias’s hotels – especially outside high summer – and with lots more atmosphere, wander the villages until you find an option that suits, or check www.zimmer.co.il or www.weekend.co.il for the manifold options. Do like an Israeli, though, and insist on that most ’70s of icons, the Jacuzzi, in yours.
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Further south on the lake’s shore,Kursi National Park (Map; 673 1983; adult/child 12/6NIS; 8am-5pm), designated by the Jewish Talmud as a site for idol worship, is said to be the place where Jesus cast a contingent of demon spirits into a herd of swine. The beautiful, recently excavated ruins feature an impressive 5th-century Byzantine-era monastery.
Sleeping
CAMPING
There’s camping