Middle East - Anthony Ham [257]
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MITZPE RAMON
08 / pop 6000
Mitzpe is Hebrew for ‘watchtower’, and accordingly, this small but surprisingly engaging desert town, home to quite an eco-artsy-alternative young population, enjoys an impressive vista across the dramatic Maktesh Ramon crater, measuring 300m deep, 8km wide and 40km long. All along this dramatic ‘watchtower’ you’ll find far-ranging views and an extensive network of hiking routes. This wild wonderland is good for days of wandering – but be sure to carry lots of water.
Information
The ammonite-shaped visitors centre ( 658 8754; adult/child 28/14NIS; 8am-5pm Sun-Thu, 8am-4pm Fri), perched on the crater rim, has a tourist office and presents an overview of Maktesh Ramon’s intriguing natural history, along with a film about the park. Pick up a Makhtesh Ramon Nature Reserve map (2NIS) here.
Lots of companies run rugged jeep tours, but they come and go with the desert wind and you may need to muster a group; see the visitors centre for the latest offerings.
Sights
Downhill from the visitors centre, the Bio-Ramon ( 658 8755; adult/child 12/6NIS; 9am-6pm Sun-Thu, 9am-4pm Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) complex displays a collection of desert flora and fauna. Entrance is free if you’ve already bought a ticket to the visitors centre. East of town, the fun Alpaca Farm ( 658 8047; alpaca.co.il; adult/child 25/23NIS; 8.30am-4.30pm Sat-Thu) is home to a variety of cuddly, comical South American camelids.
Sleeping
Be’erot Camping ( 658 6713; www.beerot.com; campsites/Bedouin tent per person 25/40NIS) Camp in a dramatic setting, with local tents, Bedouin cuisine (meals are available for 30NIS), clean bathrooms and a modern shower block. It’s 12km south of Mitzpe Ramon on the highway to Eilat, and then 5km down a bumpy access road. It’s best to call ahead.
Silent Arrow (Hetzba Sheket; 052 661 1561; hetzbasheket.com; Bedouin/dome tents 80/120NIS) Environmentally sensitive Silent Arrow is an amazing place to relax and recuperate from the stresses of Eilat, Tel Aviv, or just life on the road. Choose from a mattress in a communal Bedouin tent or a private dome ‘suite’ tent, enjoy the twinkle of hanging lanterns (there’s no electricity) and, most of all, revel in the silence. Volunteers are welcome, and archery workshops (hence the name) are frequent.
Succah in the Desert (Succah HaMidbar; 658 6280; www.succah.co.il; PO Box 272, Mitzpe Ramon; s/d Sat-Thu 250/400NIS, Fri 600/600NIS) Set 7km from town down a dusty track, this is an ecoretreat to get away from it all. Although short on creature comforts, the aims of the simple cabins are laudable: solar electricity, natural building materials and yummy vegetarian food. Advance bookings are essential and will avail you of free transport from Mitzpe Ramon.
Eating
Hannah’s Restaurant ( 658 8158; mains from 25NIS; 9am-6pm Sun-Thu, 9am-3pm Fri) It is one of the wonders of Israel that petrol station restaurants are consistently some of the very best places to get simple, hearty food. Hannah’s Restaurant, at the Paz petrol station, is no exception, turning out satisfyingly large portions of tasty Moroccan-influenced cuisine.
HaHavit ( 658 8226; mains 30-45NIS; 9am-2am) Located beside the visitors centre, HaHavit (Barrel) serves hearty pasta, sandwich and salad lunches, while on Tuesday nights you can party till late with locally based young soldiers.
Getting There & Away
From Sunday to Thursday, bus 392 travels to Eilat (44NIS, 2½ hours) at 8.55am, 10.25am, 12.55pm and 4.40pm. From 6am to 9.30pm, bus 60 shuttles hourly to and from Be’er Sheva (23NIS, 1¼ hours), via Sde Boker and Ein Avdat.
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EILAT
08 / pop 46,300
From Mitzpe Ramon to Eilat is the physical manifestation of the phrase ‘from the sublime to the ridiculous’. Wedged between Jordan and Egypt, and separated from the Israel of international headlines by 200km of desert, Eilat is a resort town, incredibly popular with Israelis, where glitzy, much-of-a-muchness hotels line an artificial lagoon and glass-bottomed