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Middle East - Anthony Ham [259]

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25% or more on weekends, and 25% to 50% (or even more) in the months of June and August. Avoid peak holiday times – especially weekends – like the plague, when you’ll barely be able to spread a tea-towel on Eilat’s beaches.

CAMPING

Camping is illegal on most beaches, and this is strictly enforced. If you really want to set up tent, people camp for free on the narrow stony shores on Taba Rd down to the border, but there are no facilities and it’s not particularly pleasant. For better camping, pay 40NIS for a pitch at the SPNI Field School ( 637 1127), which is shady, with clean bathrooms and a simple café.

HOTELS & HOSTELS

If you’re desperate to stay in one of the glitzy places along the promenade, check www.arkia.com for discounted deals.

Arava Hostel ( 637 4687; 106 Almogin St; dm/s/d/tr 40/100/120/150NIS; ) Considered by many travellers the cleanest and best value guesthouse among several others in this area, the Arava consists of 27 unspectacular rooms, a well-lit common room and a pleasant patio garden. Staff members here are a great source of info on diving courses in town.

Corinne Hostel ( 637 1472; 127 Retamim St; dm/s/d 45/70/2000NIS; ) This is Eilat’s oldest hostel, a quiet and quite atmospheric place with double and dorm rooms in the main block and small wood cabins out the back, each topped with wooden reindeer cut-outs, as if Santa’s just arrived in Eilat. Kitchen facilities and cable TV are available.

Eilat Guesthouse & Youth Hostel ( 637 0088; Mizrayim Rd; dm/s/d US$20/35/60; ) Modern, clean and thoroughly serviceable (in contrast to a number of hostels in town for whom the word ‘dive’ has nothing to do with the Red Sea), this is a dependable choice in a handy – if often rowdy – location; unfortunately a little too popular with school groups.

Orchid Hotel ( 636 0630; www.orchidhotel.co.il; Coral Beach; d US$210-310, villas from US$850; ) If you’re not enticed by Eilat chains – often with a dodgy EuroDisneyesque theme attached – here’s a choice that, while undeniably themed (Thai-style in this case), is a little more laid-back. Comfy huts adorn a hillside above the Coral Beach reserve, with great views of the sea, a lovely pool and a rejuvenating spa. Best thing is, though, that it’s tucked away from the Blackpool-by-Sea feel of Eilat proper.

Eating & Drinking

Many of Eilat’s eating options are spread along the hotel-packed promenade, with good-value Israeli chains such as Aroma (for coffee and sandwiches) and Giraffe (for noodles) well represented. There are cheap eats to be had at the market that spreads out along the seafront on weekends: look out for the sweetcorn stall, which sells over 50 sauces to top your corn cob. A number of small restaurants, cafés and shwarma stands can also be found in the New Tourist Centre.

Spring Onion ( 637 7434; Bridge House; mains 45-65NIS; 9am-3am; ) This is a popular, mostly vegie place beside the lagoon bridge, serving huge portions of pizza and salad, and a mammoth Israeli breakfast.

Ginger Asian Kitchen & Bar ( 637 2517; gingereilat.com; Park Ave; mains from 60NIS; lunch-late) If you’re in the mood for pad thai accompanied by a stunning Fig Mojito, look no further than cool, loungey Ginger. Munch on sushi by all means, but make sure to leave space to slurp up the whisky-laced chocolate soup.

Eddie’s Hide-A-Way ( 637 1137; 68 Almogin St; mains from 70NIS; dinner Mon-Fri, lunch & dinner Sat)Succulent steaks are served at this Eilat institution, as well as good fish dishes and a nice line in vegetarian mains.

Entertainment

Eilat’s nightlife is firmly bar-based, and the action focuses on the Promenade and New Tourist Centre, with frequently changing options.

Underground Pub ( 637 0239; underground-pub.com; New Tourist Centre; noon-4am) The perennial traveller’s favourite, with full English breakfasts, good value beer, easy music to listen to and nightly live entertainment.

Unplugged ( 632 6299; New Tourist Centre; 7pm-3am) Next door to the Underground Pub, this place, complete with outdoor tented area, attracts a teens-type crowd with a noisy, dance-bar atmosphere.

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