Middle East - Anthony Ham [262]
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INSIDE THE WEST BANK
The West Bank, for all its recent troubles, is a fascinating place to learn about the real lives of Palestinians behind the often sensational news headlines. To make it all the more accessible, contact one of the following organisations.
Alternative Tourism Group ( 02-277 2151; patg.org) Offers plenty of information, and recommended day tours of Hebron and Bethlehem (every Tuesday, 225NIS, 8am to 6pm).
Holy Land Trust ( 02-276 5930; holylandtrust.org)Based in Bethlehem, the trust can arrange tours of the Territories, study programs, homestays and it helps organise the two-month annual Palestine Summer Encounter.
Palestinian Association for Cultural Exchange ( 02-240 7611; pace.ps)Offers one-day and longer tours of Nablus, Hebron, Qalqilya (a West Bank town containing the West Bank’s only zoo) and around, supports local cooperatives, and can arrange lecture programs.
Open Bethlehem ( 02-277 2151; openbethlehem.org)Based on Manger Sq, a great first stop for an introduction to your travels in the West Bank.
Sabeel ( 02-523 7136; sabeel.org) A highly respected ecumenical Christian organisation, offering regular conferences and programs.
Siraj Centre for Holy Land Studies ( 02-274 8590; sirajcenter.org)Organises and coordinates plenty of activities and ‘encounters’ throughout the West Bank.
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RAMALLAH
02 / pop 24,600
Once a Christian religious centre and later a resort town for wealthy Arabs, Ramallah is now better known as the headquarters for the Palestinian Authority, the Palestinian administrative body at the top of which is president Mahmoud Abbas, and the centre for culture and arts in the West Bank.
There is little left to remind the visitor of old Ramallah, much of it having been torn down to make way for modern shops and malls. However, the city does have a feel of prosperity and youthful energy, with even quite cosmopolitan inclinations, attested to by the swanky restaurants, bars and the fact that one of the West Bank’s first female mayors was elected here in 2006.
Sights
Ramallah makes a good base if you’re planning on extensively exploring the local cultural scene (see Arts Central, opposite) but for those with limited time, the main reason to come here is to visit Yasser Arafat’s tomb (admission free; 8am-9pm), which is located inside the compound of the Al-Muqata’a, the partially destroyed but now renovated headquarters of the Palestinian Authority (bullet holes still clearly visible). Al-Muqata’a is 1km from the city centre, on the road to Birzeit and Nablus.
Sleeping & Eating
There’s a definite dearth of good traveller-orientated accommodation in Ramallah; it might be best to stay in nearby Jerusalem and visit just for the day.
Al-Wihdeh Hotel ( 298 0412; Al-Nahda St; s/d without bathroom 80/100NIS) It has basic rooms in the very centre of town.
Grand Park Hotel & Resorts ( 298 6194; grandpark.com; Rafat Rd; s/d US$75/95; ) The swankiest hotel in town, with gardens, a pool and all the luxe trimmings.
You won’t find eating or drinking a problem in the city, with cafés, restaurants, and hummus joints in plentiful supply. Try Maissareem (Al-Se’a/Clock Sq; felafel sandwich 4NIS; lunch-late) for all-night snacking, or Pronto Resto-Café ( 298 7313; Al-Muntazah; mains 35-60NIS; lunch-late) for a nice glass of wine and a big bowl of pasta with the in-crowd.
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ARTS CENTRAL
One of the main reasons to come to Ramallah is if you’re hoping to get an insight into the Palestinian arts scene. And it’s a terrific place to do so, since Ramallah has arts centres in abundance. Here are a few of the best.
Al-Kasaba Theater & Cinematheque ( 296 5292; www.alkasaba.org; Al-Manara) A well-known centre for arts, music, film and theatre,