• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

By Root 1862 0

Gaza, and there were hopes that life might stabilise. Recent events have proved the opposite. Nicknamed ‘Hamas-stan’, it’s now Palestinian factions that are fighting each other, while despite intermittent attempts at a ceasefire, militants continue to lob missiles over the border to the troubled Israeli town of Sderot. Border gates bringing in valuable supplies are often blocked by Israel, while tunnels smuggle weapons and ammo from Egypt into Gaza. It’s a bleak picture with few signs of hope, though stories from the inside show that, though unhappy, life does go on for Gaza City’s troubled citizens.

* * *

NO-GO GAZA

Getting to Gaza, unless you’re an aid worker, foreign diplomat or journalist was, at the time of writing, impossible. Check whether things have changed if you’re intending on visiting (beware that the security situation is volatile and kidnappings alarmingly frequent) – but, sadly, it looks unlikely.

* * *

Sights & Activities

Though it’s not exactly tourist central, Gaza City does have a surprising amount to see. The area around central Palestine Sq holds most of the city’s sites of historical interest. The most distinguished structure is the converted Crusader-era church, Jama’a al-Akbar (Great Mosque). Along its southern wall runs the short, vaulted Gold Market, which has served prospective bridegrooms since the Mamluk era.

In 1799, during his Egyptian campaign, Napoleon Bonaparte camped in Gaza and established his base on Al-Wahida St in the attractive Mamluk-era building now called Napoleon’s Citadel, currently awaiting inauguration as a UN-funded museum. From the citadel, head west and take the second right to reach the Mosque of Said Hashim ( closed to non-Muslims Fri), built on the grave of the Prophet Mohammed’s great-grandfather.

The city’s beautiful, adobe Arts & Craft Village ( 284 6405; www.gazavillage.org; Gamal Abdul Nasser St) produces and then sells a range of local arts and crafts, including embroidery, copperware and glasswork, and has an attractive attached restaurant. You’ll find the village about 800m south of the Islamic University on El-Khartoum St.

Sleeping & Eating

Al Deira ( 283 8100; Er-Rashid St; s/d from US$90/100; ) An island of luxury in Gaza, the Al Deira has swish rooms, all with excellent sea views plus minibar and cable TV, and the best seafood in town at its downstairs restaurant, open for lunch and dinner daily.

Getting There & Away

When times are less troubled, the Erez border between Israel and Gaza is the main point of entry and exit. The best way to get here is by private car; public transport has currently given up the journey due to a dearth of passengers and you may not easily find an Israeli taxi willing to take you as far as the border.

Return to beginning of chapter

ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES DIRECTORY

Return to beginning of chapter

ACCOMMODATION

Though Israel ranks as one of the most expensive destinations in the Middle East, its accommodation manages to cater to all budgets, with a good selection of hostels, midrange guesthouses and top-end luxury hotels. On summer weekends (June to September) and around Israeli holidays, though, prices can rise by as much as 50% to 70%.

The Palestinian Territories offers more limited, but cheaper, accommodation. A good base is Bethlehem, with its extensive range of pilgrims’ hostels and budget to midrange hotels. There are also plenty of interesting options for homestays; see Inside the West Bank (Click here) or sign up for a homestay exchange organisation such as Hospitality Club (hospitalityclub.org), which has a number of Palestinian members offering travellers a bed for the night.

Throughout the chapter, we have defined price ranges as: budget (double room up to US$75, or 255NIS), midrange (US$75 to US$100, or 255NIS to 510NIS), and top end (over US$150, or 510NIS), for a room during high season.

B&Bs

All over Israel you’ll find accommodation in private homes, ranging from around US$25 to US$100 for a single or double. Facilities vary from simple rooms with shared facilities