Middle East - Anthony Ham [272]
Most of Israel’s parks and nature reserves are fantastic for kids, and older children will enjoy the hikes – some gentle, some more challenging – on offer throughout the country. The cities, too, have lots of diversions for children young and old, and there’s always a toy shop, ice-cream parlour or other diverting activity for when a bribe’s the only thing that will work.
Though the Palestinian Territories hold fewer obvious attractions for kids, children will nevertheless receive an extra-warm welcome, and will often be whisked away to meet local children or be treated to cakes and cookies. Kids will also enjoy Bethlehem’s all-year Christmas shops and decorations, though younger kids (the author’s included) may confuse the birthplace of Jesus for the hometown of Father Christmas.
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COURSES
Some Israeli universities operate overseas programs for students of Hebrew, Arabic and Middle Eastern studies. Participants don’t necessarily need to speak Hebrew, but may be required to study it as part of their curriculum. Birzeit University (birzeit.edu), 7km north of Ramallah, runs both beginners and advanced courses in Arabic language and literature for US$650 per course.
Travellers wishing to learn Hebrew will probably want to look for an ulpan – a language school catering mainly to new Jewish immigrants. Most programs cost under 500NIS per month; tourist information offices can give you details of ulpanim open for nonimmigrants.
For those who prefer not to study too hard, there are also kibbutz ulpanim, where you can take-on study in a rural atmosphere and work at the same time. The website www.kibbutzprogramcenter.org is an excellent source of information.
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CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
Israel allows travellers to import duty free up to 1L of spirits and 2L of wine for each person over 17 years of age, as well as 250g of tobacco or 250 cigarettes. In theory, computer or diving equipment may need to be declared on arrival, and a deposit paid to prevent its sale in Israel, but in practice this regulation is rarely applied.
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DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Theft
Theft is as much a problem in Israel and the Palestinian Territories as it is in any other country, so take the usual precautions: for example, don’t leave valuables in your room or vehicle. In hostels, it’s wise to check your most valuable belongings into the desk safe. On intercity buses, it’s fine to stow large bags in the luggage hold, but keep valuables with you inside. Crowded tourist spots and markets are obvious haunts for pickpockets, so stay aware of what’s happening around you.
Security Situation
Security remains tight in Israel. When entering bus or rail terminals, shopping malls, government buildings and any place else that might conceivably be a terrorist target, your bags will be searched – and in some cases X-rayed. You will also be checked with a metal detector or by body search and probably asked the question: ‘do you have a gun?’ You’ll get used to this – along with seeing armed soldiers strolling along the street – surprisingly quickly.
Roads into most West Bank towns have army roadblocks where you’ll need to show a passport and answer questions about your reason for travel. Similarly, those leaving the country from Ben-Gurion airport are likely to be grilled about their stay and have their luggage thoroughly scrutinised.
Since the situation, particularly in the West Bank and Gaza (which is effectively off-limits), remains unpredictable, it’s important to monitor the news closely before travelling in the area. Be aware that you may be warned off visiting these areas by concerned Israelis; while it’s courteous to heed their warnings, it’s also crucial to realise that they aren’t necessarily accurate. So long as the Israeli army allows you through the checkpoints, you can assume that the area