Middle East - Anthony Ham [280]
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GETTING AROUND
Air
Israir (israir.co.il) flies at least once daily (including Saturday) between Ben-Gurion, Tel Aviv Sde Dov, Eilat and Haifa. Arkia (arkia.co.il), which also runs international charters, also operates flights between the same cities.
Bicycle
Cycle tourists should bear in mind the hot climate, winter rainfall, steep hills, and Israeli drivers with a death-wish. The best place for a leisurely cycle trip is around the Sea of Galilee; for such purposes, several of Tiberias’ hostels hire out bicycles for quite reasonable rates.
Bus
Israel’s small size and excellent road system combine to make bus travel the public transport of choice in the centre, though routes are very patchy in the north and far south of the country. The network is dominated by Egged ( 03-694 8888; egged.co.il), which runs fast and modern air-con buses on both long-distance and city bus routes; check online for information on schedules and prices, including city buses.
In Nazareth, East Jerusalem and the West Bank, a number of small Arab-run bus companies provide public transport on typically slow and antiquated vehicles. Note that Egged bus schedules are affected by public holidays and usually don’t run during Shabbat, while Arab buses operate daily.
Car & Motorcycle
Drivers won’t need an international licence, but must have their home drivers licence in order to rent a car or drive a private vehicle.
Because buses are less frequent in the Golan Heights and the Negev areas, these places are best seen with a rental car, and those on a budget will find that sharing a vehicle can be quite economical (US$250 per week, or less). Ask at your hotel or hostel to get an idea of the best rates and companies of the moment, which aren’t always the international chains. Make sure your designated driver is good on both the offence and defence, and has a long fuse, since Israeli drivers aren’t known for their caution or courtesy.
One highly recommended rental company for travel throughout Israel and on into the West Bank is Green Peace ( 02-528 2179; greenpeace.co.il), which offers cars daily from US$70, with discounts for longer rentals.
Hitching
Hitching is very popular countrywide – especially in the north and south – and the local method of soliciting a lift is to simply point an index finger at the road. For general safety reasons, though, we don’t recommend you do it.
Local Transport
SHERUT
As in neighbouring Middle Eastern countries, the shared taxi (sherut) rules the roads of both Israel and the Palestinian Territories. In Israel, the sherut is usually a comfortable minibus; in the Palestinian Territories, it’s known more commonly as simply a shared taxi or service taxi, and is often a smoking old Mercedes car with multiple passengers crammed in. During Shabbat, sheruts provide the only transport on certain major intercity routes, and on the West Bank, where Egged is limited to Jewish towns, the sheruts save hours of travelling time over the typically spluttering, smoke-belching Arab buses.
TAXI
Insist that Israeli taxi drivers use the meter (Palestinian yellow taxis rarely have a meter installed), and watch your progress on a map to ensure that the shortest route is followed. Taxi tariffs rise between 9pm and 5.30am.
Train
Israel State Railways (ISR; 03-577 4000; israrail.org.il) runs a limited but convenient, efficient and inexpensive network of passenger rail services between Be’er Sheva and Nahariya, as well as a route to Jerusalem. It is especially recommended for travel between Tel Aviv and Haifa or Akko. ISIC holders get a 20% discount. For the latest details, see its website.
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Jordan
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CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO