Middle East - Anthony Ham [301]
Public transport is unreliable on the Dead Sea Hwy and this is one place to consider renting a car or taxi for the day. Most budget travellers visit the Dead Sea as part of a day trip from Amman or Madaba.
BETHANY-BEYOND-THE-JORDAN
Known in Arabic as Al-Maghtas (Baptism Site), this important site is claimed by Christians to be the place where Jesus was baptised by John the Baptist, where the first five apostles met and where the prophet Elijah ascended to heaven in a chariot. It wasn’t until the 1994 peace treaty with Israel that the remains of churches, caves and baptism pools were unearthed. Pope John Paul II authenticated the site in March 2000.
Sights
Entry to the site (adult/child under 12 JD7/free; 8am-4pm winter & Ramadan, to 6pm summer) includes a mandatory guided tour. The shuttle bus makes a brief stop at Tell Elias, where the prophet Elias is said to have ascended to heaven after his death, and then normally continues to the Spring of John the Baptist, one of several places where John is believed to have baptised. The main archaeological site is the church complex next to the likely site of Jesus’s baptism. The trail continues to the muddy Jordan River, where you too could be baptised if you had the foresight to bring your own priest.
Tours often return via the House of Mary the Egyptian and a two-room hermit cave. On the way back, you can ask to be dropped at the archaeological site of Tell Elias (Elijah’s Hill), which includes a 3rd-century church, the cave of John the Baptist, baptism pools and the Byzantine Rhotorius Monastery.
Getting There & Away
Take any minibus to Suweimeh, en route to the Dead Sea. About 5km before the town, the road forks; the baptism site is well signposted to the right. From here, you’ll need to walk or hitch the 5km to the visitor centre.
A taxi from Madaba to the site, taking in the Dead Sea and Mt Nebo en route, costs around JD25.
THE DEAD SEA
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The Dead Sea is at the lowest point on earth and has such high salinity (due to evaporation) that nothing but the most microscopic of life forms can survive in it. Indeed, the only things you’re likely to see in the Dead Sea are a few over-buoyant tourists. A dip in the sea is one of those must-do experiences but be warned: you’ll discover cuts you didn’t know you had, so don’t shave before bathing! Sadly, the Dead Sea is under threat from shrinking water levels (Click here).
The most luxurious way to swim on the Jordanian side of the Dead Sea is at one of the upmarket resorts, which cost from JD20 (Dead Sea Spa Hotel) to JD35 (Mövenpick Resort & Spa) for day access to their sumptuous grounds, private beaches and swimming pools.
Most budget visitors head for Amman Beach ( 3560800; foreign adult/child JD10/6; 8.00am-midnight), about 2km south of the resorts. The landscaped grounds include a clean beach, sun umbrellas and freshwater showers. The vibrant local atmosphere makes it a great place to strike up conversation with a Jordanian family. Locals generally swim fully clothed, though foreigners shouldn’t feel uncomfortable here in a modest swimming costume. Women on their own may prefer shorts and a T-shirt.
Opened in 2008, Al-Wadi Resort (adult/child JD25/18; 9am-6pm Sat-Thu, to 7pm Fri) has a variety of water games, including wave machine and slides. There are two restaurants (9am to midnight), one selling snacks and the other offering an Arabic menu. Children are measured on entry: those under 95cm are admitted for free! The resort is about 500m north of the Convention Centre at the head of the Resort strip.
A free alternative is Herodus Spring, where Herod himself is said to have sought the curative power of the hot springs for his itching body. The spring is about 10km south of the resort strip, but the area is neither clean nor inviting and there’s little privacy. A better bet is to take a more private dip farther along the coast and wash off the salt (a necessity) with a bottle of water.
The resorts and public areas are very busy on Fridays – useful for finding a ride back to Amman if you missed the last bus. Take