Middle East - Anthony Ham [307]
For the following places, admission is a combination ticket (JD2), which covers all three sites.
The Archaeological Park ( 3246681; Hussein bin Ali St; 8am-4pm Oct-Apr, to 5pm May-Sep) contains exceptional mosaics from all around the Madaba area. The large roofed structure in front as you enter contains the Hippolytus Hall, a former Byzantine villa with some superb classical mosaics (the upper image shows a topless Aphrodite sitting next to Adonis and spanking a naughty winged Eros). The other half of the structure is the 6th-century Church of the Virgin Mary. There are also remains of a Roman road.
The Church of the Apostles (Al-Nuzha St; 9am-4pm Oct-Apr, 8am-5pm May-Sep) contains a remarkable mosaic dedicated to the 12 apostles. The central portion shows a vivid representation of the sea, surrounded by fish and a comical little octopus.
Housed in several old Madaba residences, Madaba Museum ( 3244189; Al-Baiqa St; 9am-5pm) contains a number of ethnographic exhibits and some more good mosaics.
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VOLUNTARY WORK
For those who like Madaba well enough to stay, there is an opportunity to teach English at the New Orthodox School ( 3250636; Talal St) that would make for a worthwhile gap year experience. Run by Father Innocent (Innokentios), who describes himself as ‘Innocent by name, but guilty by any other means’, the school is attached to St George’s Church. It aims to promote ‘mutual respect and peaceful coexistence’ among youngsters of different religious communities and a nonprofit organisation, supporting needy students. Volunteers would receive free accommodation, pocket money and private Arabic lessons. Email Father Innocent for details (diodoros@wanadoo.jo).
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Activities
If you’ve had just about enough mosaics for one day, you could always enjoy closely knit tiles of a different kind at Madaba Turkish Bath ( 3250999; Hashmi St). The baths are clean and intimate but opening hours appear to be ad hoc – it’s best to call ahead. Women choose a female or male attendant and couples can share the facilities if they wish. Facilities include a steam room, Jacuzzi, scrub down, massage and a hot tiled floor. An hour’s soak costs JD15 or JD20 with a massage.
Sleeping
Madaba Hotel ( /fax 3240643; Al-Jame St; s/d JD10/18, s/d/tr without bathroom from JD8/16/21) The spartan rooms are clean with dorm-style beds and a heater and sporadic hot water. There’s a ground-floor lounge and kitchen that guests can use. Breakfast (JD1) is better enjoyed elsewhere.
Lulu’s Pension ( 3243678; fax 3247617; Hamraa al-Asd St; s/d/tr with bathroom & balcony JD15/25/35, without bathroom JD15/22/35) Comfortable rooms and a warm welcome characterise this family B&B.
Black Iris Hotel ( 3241959; www.blackirishotel.com; Al-Mouhafada Circle; s/d/tr JD18/25/35 For a feeling of ‘home away from home’, it’s hard to beat this popular hotel run by one of Madaba’s Christian families. The carpeted rooms are cosy and there’s a spacious sitting area. It’s a good bet for women travelling alone. The hotel is easy to spot from Al-Mouhafada Circle.
Moab Land Hotel ( /fax 3251318; moablandhotel@wanadoo.jo; Talal St; s/d/t JD20/25/30) Directly opposite St George’s Church and with wonderful views, this homely establishment is as central as it gets. The recently refurbished rooms have sprung mattresses and pine furniture, and there’s a cosy communal area with TV. Breakfast is served on the glorious rooftop terrace in summer.
Salome Hotel ( 3248606; www.salomehotel.com; Aisha Umm al-Mumeneen St; s/d JD18/25; ) With the family-run appeal of a small residential hotel, the Salome is a good choice for a quiet stay. Rooms are small but they all have TV and are spotless. The hotel is next to the Mariam, a five-minute walk from the town centre.
Mariam Hotel ( 3251529; www.mariamhotel.com; Aisha Umm al-Mumeneen St; s/d/tr JD25/30/36; ) The Mariam’s friendly reputation is still intact despite ambitious recent expansions. Excellent facilities include a bar and a cheerful communal lobby. The modern, no-nonsense rooms