Middle East - Anthony Ham [315]
The spectacular sandstone city of Petra (Map) was built in the 3rd century BC by the Nabataeans, who carved palaces, temples, tombs, storerooms and stables from the sandstone cliffs. From here, they commanded the trade routes from Damascus to Arabia, and great spice, silk and slave caravans passed through, paying taxes and protection money. In a short time, the Nabataeans made great advances – they mastered hydraulic engineering, iron production, copper refining, sculpture and stone carving. Archaeologists believe that several earthquakes, including a massive one in AD 555, forced the inhabitants to abandon the city.
The ticket office is in Petra visitor centre. Admission fees are JD21/26/31 for a one-/two-/three-day pass (subsequent days are free with the three-day pass). Multiday tickets are nontransferable and signatures are checked. Children under 15 years are free.
The Site
You approach Petra through the legendary 1.2km-long, high-sided Siq. This is not a canyon but rather a rock landmass that has been rent apart by tectonic forces. Just as you start to think there’s no end to the Siq, you catch breathtaking glimpses ahead of the most impressive of Petra’s sights, the Treasury, known locally as Al-Khazneh. Carved out of iron-laden sandstone to serve as a tomb, the Treasury gets its name from the misguided local belief that an Egyptian pharaoh hid his treasure in the top urn. The Greek-style pillars, alcoves and plinths are truly masterpieces of masonry work.
From the Treasury, the way broadens into the Outer Siq, riddled by over 40 tombs known collectively as the Street of Facades. Just before you reach the weatherworn 7000-seat Theatre, notice a set of steps on the left. These ascend to the High Place of Sacrifice, a hill-top altar, an easy but steep 45-minute climb. Descend on the other side of the mountain via the Garden Tomb, Soldier’s Tomb and Garden Triclinium and follow your nose back to the Street of Façades, not far after the Theatre.
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SUGGESTED ITINERARIES IN PETRA
Instead of trying to see all the top spots, spare time to amble among unnamed tombs, have a picnic in the shade of a flowering oleander or sip tea and watch everyone else trying to ‘see it all’. Begin early: the tour buses arrive between 8am and 9am and the Siq is best experienced before the crowds arrive. The Treasury is sunlit until 10am, while the Monastery and Royal Tombs are at their best after 3pm. The following suggestions combine obvious highlights with some off-the-beaten track exploration.
Half-Day(Five Hours)
Amble through the Siq, absorbing its special atmosphere and savouring the moment of revelation at the Treasury. Resist the temptation to head for the Theatre; instead, climb the steps to the High Place of Sacrifice. Pause for tea by the Obelisks and take the path into Wadi Farasa, enjoying wild flowers and the Garden Tomb en route. The path reaches the colonnaded street via a paintbox of rock formations. If there’s time remaining, visit the Royal Tombs then return to the valley floor for a chat with Bedouin stallholders and a hunt for the perfect sand bottle.
One Day (Eight Hours)
Spend the morning completing the half-day itinerary but pack a picnic. After visiting the Royal Tombs, walk along to Qasr al-Bint and hike along the broad wadi that leads to Jebel Haroun as far as the Snake Monument – an ideal perch for a snack and a snooze. Return to Qasr al-Bint and slip into the nearby Nabataean Museum, saving some energy for the climb to the Monastery, a fitting finale for any visit to Petra.
Two Days
Spend a second day scrambling through exciting Wadi Muthlim and restore energies over a barbeque in the Basin Restaurant. Walk off lunch while exploring the hidden beauty of Wadi Siyagh with its pools of water, before strolling back along the Street of Facades. Sit in the Theatre to watch the sun go down on the Royal Tombs opposite – the best spectacle in Petra.
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Almost opposite the Theatre, you’ll notice another set of steps that lead to a fine set of tomb facades cut into