Middle East - Anthony Ham [318]
Petra Palace Hotel (Map; 2156723; www.petrapalace.com.jo; s/d/tr JD42/63/85; ) Located 500m from the entrance to Petra, this attractive hotel, with its palm-tree entrance and helpful management, has a bar and restaurant. The corridors are a bit tired but the rooms are newly renovated. ‘Garden rooms’ open onto a terrace with two swimming pools.
TOP END
Petra Guest House (Map; 2156266; www.crowneplaza.com; s/d/t JD120/150/180; ) You can’t sleep closer to the entrance to Petra without bedding down in a cave. Although not of the same quality, the guesthouse does offer use of the Crown Plaza Resort Hotel’s facilities. Choose from motel-like chalets or rooms in the recently renovated main building.
Mövenpick Hotel (Map; 2157111; www.moevenpick-petra.com; s/d JD155/170; ) This beautifully crafted, Arabian-style hotel, 100m from the entrance to Petra, is worth a visit simply to admire the inlaid furniture, marble fountains, wooden screens, antique dishes and brass salvers. There’s a children’s playground and small arcade of quality gift shops. The buffet breakfast and dinner are exceptional.
Sofitel Taybet Zaman (Map; 2150111; reservation@taybetzaman.com; s/d US$180/200; extra bed US$53; ) One of the most distinctive hotels in Jordan, the Taybet Zaman is a stylish reconstruction of a traditional Ottoman stone village, with luxurious and spacious rooms, handicraft shops and Turkish bath. The hotel is located in Tayyibeh village; a taxi from Petra (10km) costs about JD10 one way. Even if you don’t stay, it’s worth visiting the terrace restaurant called Sahtain, with its cavernous, vaulted interior. Simple fare for lunch includes the chef’s salad (JD2.700), and there’s a dinner buffet (JD19).
Eating
Central Wadi Musa is dotted with grocery stores where you can stock up for a picnic at Petra. There’s a supermarket next to Al-Anbat Hotel I, slightly out of town on the road to ‘Ain Musa.
Al-Afandi Quick Restaurant (Map; meals from JD2) A simple and friendly place located off the Shaheed roundabout, offering hummus, felafel and shwarma.
Al-Wadi Restaurant (Map; 2157151; salads JD1, mains JD4-5; 7am-late) Right on Shaheed roundabout, this lively spot offers pasta and pizza, as well as a range of vegetarian dishes and local Bedouin specialties such as gallayah (a traditional meal of chicken with tomatoes, other vegetables, garlic and Arabic spices) and mensaf, most of which come with salad and rice. The similar Al-Arabi Restaurant (Map; 2157661; mains from JD1; 6am-midnight) next door offers discounts to repeat customers.
Red Cave Restaurant (Map; 2157799; starters JD1, mains JD4-5; 9am-10pm) Cavernous, cool and friendly, this restaurant specialises in local Bedouin specialties including mensaf and maqlubbeh. Located very near the main entrance to Petra, it makes a good meeting point.
The Oriental Restaurant (Map; 2157087; mains JD4-5, pizzas from JD2.500; 11am-9.30pm), together with neighbouring Sandstone Restaurant (Map; 079 5542277; starters/mains JD1/6; 8.00am-midnight), offers simple fare of tasty mixed grills, salad and mezze with pleasant outdoor seating. These are good places for a beer (spare a good-natured chuckle at the English spelling of the menus).
Mystic Pizza (Map; 2155757; JD3-8; 8.30am-11pm; ) A welcoming new establishment serving fresh, tasty pizza including good vegetarian choices.
Consider cooking your own food (Jordanian mezze, soup and main course) at Petra Kitchen (Map; 2155700; www.petrakitchen.com; cookery course per person JD30; ). Located 100m from the Mövenpick Hotel, Petra Kitchen offers nightly cookery courses run