Middle East - Anthony Ham [324]
GLASS-BOTTOM BOATS
If you can’t spare time to go diving or snorkelling, the next best thing is a glass-bottom boat. Hire a boat for at least two to three hours to see the best fish.
Boats, which operate between 6.30am and 5pm, congregate along the central public beach or at a jetty in front of Aqaba Castle. The posted rate for a boat (holding about 10 people) is JD10/15/25 (half hour/45 minutes/hour). A three-hour trip costs JD75 and a half-day trip is JD100. Bring a swim suit and snorkelling equipment.
DIVING & SNORKELLING
According to the Jordan Royal Ecological Society ( 06-5679142; www.jreds.org), the Gulf of Aqaba has over 110 species of hard coral, 120 species of soft coral and about 1000 species of fish with some superb sites for diving and snorkelling. Access is south of the town centre and ferry-passenger terminal.
Aqaba’s dive agencies are very professional. A one-/two-tank shore dive costs around JD20/35 and an additional JD10 for full equipment rental. Night dives and PADI courses (around JD200) are available.
Aqaba International Dive Centre ( 2031213; www.aqabadiving center.com; King Hussein St) Popular, well equipped and easily one of Aqaba’s best.
Arab Divers ( 2031808; www.aqaba-arabdivers.com; King Hussein St) Highly recommended by readers year after year.
Dive Aqaba ( 079 6600701; www.diveaqaba.com; As-Sadah St) Known for its teaching staff.
Red Sea Diving Centre ( 2022323; off King Hussein St)
Royal Diving Club ( 2017035; www.rdc.jo) Twelve kilometres south of the city, this is virtually an institution.
For snorkelling, all the places listed above rent out flippers, mask and snorkel for JD3 to JD5 per day. Some offer snorkelling boat trips for around JD20 per person.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Unless otherwise stated, places listed here offer (nonsatellite) TV, air-conditioning and private bathroom with hot water (not always reliable); they don’t include breakfast.
Al-Amer Hotel ( /fax 2014821; Raghadan St; s/d/tr JD12/15/20; ) Don’t get too excited at the powder-blue reception with its chandelier: the French Rococo stops here! That said, the bright, clean rooms, especially at the front, make this a quality budget option. If you get peckish in the night, the Syrian Palace Restaurant (opposite) is right next door.
Al-Kholil Hotel ( /fax 2030152; Zahran St; s/d/tr JD14/16/22; ) This very basic hotel is central, at least. The low ceilings are a serious inconvenience to tall people. If you ignore the damp patches on the wall, this is a clean option if you get stuck for somewhere cheap.
Moon Beach Hotel ( 2013316; ashraf.saad77@yahoo.com; King Hussein St; s/d/tr JD17/25/30; ) Nearly next to the castle, this is undoubtedly the best of the budget options. The rooms mostly have sea views, satellite TV, a fridge and soap, though the dark-red furnishings won’t be everyone’s taste! The delightful management makes up for the dodgy decor.
Al-Shula Hotel ( 2015153; alshula@wanadoo.jo; Raghadan St; s/d/tr JD20/27/34; ) With its black-and-white marble reception desk, the hotel promises well but the rest is rather utilitarian. The rooms have TV and fridge, and most have good views.
Bedouin Garden Village ( 079 5602521; per person campsites/dm/r JD3/12/36; meals around JD5; ) Sun worshippers and dive bums will love this funky spot on the coast between Aqaba port and Tala Bay. With cosy rooms and camping pitches, the appeal of the village is swapping stories with fellow travellers beneath the Bedouin tent.
MIDRANGE
The following places have a fridge, satellite TV, telephone and hot water, and prices include breakfast.
Al-Cazar Hotel ( 2014131; www.alcazarhotel.com; An-Nahda St; s/d/tr