Middle East - Anthony Ham [335]
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GETTING AROUND
Air
There is only one domestic air route, operated by Royal Jordanian twice daily between Amman and Aqaba (JD35 one way, one hour).
Royal Wings (www.royalwings.com.jo), a subsidiary of Royal Jordanian, flies daily between Aqaba and Amman’s Marka airport (airport code ADJ), a smaller civil airport in the eastern suburbs of Amman. You can buy tickets for either of these airlines at any travel agency or Royal Jordanian office.
Bicycle
Cycling is not necessarily fun in Jordan. In summer, it’s prohibitively hot, and cyclists on the King’s Hwy have reported stone throwing by groups of young children. Cycling north or south can be hard work, as there is a strong prevailing western wind. Anywhere from the East Bank plateau down to the Dead Sea or Jordan Valley makes for exhilarating descents, but coming the other way will really test your calf muscles. Bring plenty of spare parts and contact Cycling Association(www.cycling-jordan.com) for tips before departure (Click here for more information).
Bus
The national bus company JETT(Map; 06-5854679; www.jett.com.jo; Al-Malek al-Hussein St, Shmeisani, Amman) operates the most comfortable bus service from Amman to Aqaba and Petra. There are also services to King Hussein Bridge border crossing and Hammamat Ma’in.
Another reliable company with regular services from Amman is Trust International Transport(Map; 06-5813427; Mataar al-Malekah Alya Rd).
Just about all towns in Jordan are connected by 20-seat minibuses, although the King’s Hwy, Dead Sea area and eastern Jordan are less well served. Minibuses leave when full and it can take an hour or more for the seats to fill up. Overcharging tourists is rare, except on routes to and from Wadi Musa (for Petra), where drivers often try to charge extra for ‘luggage’.
Car & Motorcycle
Hiring a car is an ideal way to get the most out of Jordan. Distances are generally short and you’ll have freedom to explore off the beaten track. Road conditions are generally good outside Amman.
DRIVING LICENCE
International Driving Permits (IDPs) are not needed. If you’re driving, keep your driving licence, rental or ownership papers and car registration in an easily accessible place.
FUEL & SPARE PARTS
Petrol is available along the Desert and King’s Hwys and in most sizeable towns. It costs about 540/620 fils for a litre of regular/super, though prices are rising weekly – one of the biggest bones of contention in Jordan at present. Diesel is about 320 fils a litre and unleaded is almost unheard of.
There are precious few mechanics in Jordan able to deal with the average modern motorcycle and its problems.
HIRE
Charges, conditions, drop-off fees, insurance costs and waiver fees in case of accident vary considerably, so it’s worth shopping around. Daily rates are JD25 to JD30, weekly rates JD140 to JD200. You can normally drop off the rental car in another city (eg Aqaba) for around JD25 extra. Many hire companies require a minimum three-days hire, and all require a deposit of up to JD400 payable upon pick up and refunded upon return of the car.
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SCAMS
Be wary of taxi drivers who claim that your chosen hotel is closed, dirty or ‘burnt down’, only to recommend another hotel – where they get commission.
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The following hire companies are reliable:
Avis (Map; 06-5699420, 777 397405; www.avis.com.jo; King Abdullah Gardens, Amman; 24hr) The biggest car hire company in Jordan, with offices at King Hussein Bridge and Aqaba and branches at the airport, Le Royal Hotel and Jordan InterContinental Hotel.
Budget(Map; 06-5698131; www.budget.com; 125 Abdul Hameed Sharaf St, Amman)
Europcar(Map; 06-5655581, 800-22270; www.europcar.middleeast.com; Isam Al-Ajlouni St, Amman) Branches at Radisson SAS, King Abdullah Gardens and in Aqaba (Map ).
Hertz (Map; 24hr airport line 06-5624191, 06-4711771; www.hertz.com; King Abdullah Gardens, Amman) Offices at the airport, Grand Hyatt Amman, Sheraton and in Aqaba (Map ).
Reliable Rent-a-Car(Map; 06-5929676, 079 5521358; www.rentareliablecar.com; 19 Fawzi