Middle East - Anthony Ham [354]
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THE HOLIDAY INN
Though you might claim to have stayed in the world’s worst Holiday Inn, this Beirut landmark takes things to another level entirely. Probably the most painful remaining monument to the civil war, it now rises above the Corniche like a huge concrete gravestone from behind the swanky Intercontinental Phoenicia.
Opened to great fanfare just weeks before the start of the civil war, the hotel quickly became a prime sniper position, which resulted in its forlorn and bullet-riddled appearance. Designed to withstand an earthquake, the building remains derelict, shreds of curtains still flapping at its windows, its only residents today a sizeable community of pigeons. Perhaps one day it will be a place of bustling porters and tinkling cocktail glasses once more; until then, it remains an enduring reminder of the dark days still uncomfortably close behind.
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Corniche
Stretching roughly from Pigeon Rocks in the south to the St George Yacht Club further north, the seafront Corniche is every Beiruti’s favourite promenade spot, especially in the early evening around for sunset, and then on – aided by backgammon, nargilehs and barbeques – late into the night. Here, you’ll find old-timers discussing the way things were, young hopefuls debating how they will be one day; pole fishermen, families, courting couples and cavorting children. Grab a piece of sea wall and a strong coffee, and delight in some people-watching par excellence. And if it’s something more serene you’re looking for, walk on down to Pigeon Rocks (Map), Beirut’s famous natural offshore arches, where you can forget – for a few minutes at least – the trammels of the city.
If you fancy a dip, several of Beirut’s chic, silicone-friendly beach clubs are situated along this stretch (note that the word ‘beach’ is used loosely, since there’s barely a grain of sand to be found in any of them). Try out the AUB beach (Map; Ain al-Mreisse; admission AUB students LL3500, guests LL10,000), which is slightly scruffy but with a great student vibe, the swish St George Yacht Motor Club (Map; 356 350; Ain al-Mreisse; Mon-Fri LL15,000, Sat & Sun LL20,000), with its extensive facilities and upscale crowd, or the small but perfectly formed La Plage (Map; 366 222; Ain al-Mreisse; admission LL20,000; 9am-7pm May-Oct) filled with beautiful, bronzed bodies.
Achrafiye
Built on the site of a Roman City of the Dead, Achrafiye is an attractive and largely sedate area, historically one of the preserves of Beirut’s Christian population and today dotted with galleries, antique shops and churches. Though eclipsed by neighbouring neighbourhood Gemmayzeh in terms of cool, Achrafiye’s nightlife, centred on Rue Monot, remains legendary.
SURSOCK MUSEUM
With its stained glass dramatically illuminated at night, you won’t miss this museum (Map; 334 133; Rue Sursock; admission free; call for hrs), which opens only when there are exhibitions scheduled (check listings in the Daily Star or the Guide). Try, if you can, to get to see one, since the museum’s spectacular marble and wood-panelled interior is every bit as dazzling as whatever is on display.
ROBERT MOUAWAD PRIVATE MUSEUM
Another worthwhile small museum (Map; 980 970; www.rmpm.info; cnr Rue Achrafiye & Rue Baroudi; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun), housed in a splendid old mansion, this place is filled with the findings of its one-time owner, the jeweller and collector Robery Mouawad. Like the Sursock Museum, it is a welcome, beautiful respite from a hot Beirut day.
Gemmayzeh
Gemmayzeh, centring on pretty Rue Gouraud, is for many locals Beirut at its best. Here’s where hole-in-the-wall bars fill with revellers and the strains of live music as night sets in and where, during the day, you can peruse some cute and arty boutiques. There’s also a scattering of art galleries for those interested in Beirut’s contemporary arts scene: head to Galerie Alice Mogabgab (Map; 210 424, Rue Gouraud) to see it for yourself.