Middle East - Anthony Ham [356]
Midrange
Most of Beirut’s midrange options are located in and around Hamra, though since most suffer from street noise, opt for a room at the back. It’s well worth asking about discounts (sometimes as much as 40%) if you’re visiting out of season.
L’Hote Libanais (Map; 03-513 766; www.hotelibanais.com; Zico House, 174 Rue Spears, Sanayeh; s US$40-50, d US$60-70) If you really want to get under the skin of the country, stay with the people, an option made possible by L’Hote Libanais, which arranges B&B home stays in Beirut and beyond. Discounts for multiple-night stays and a range of accommodation are on offer. Email the helpful staff for the full list of excellent home-stay options.
Port View Hotel (Map; 567 500; www.portviewhotel.com; Rue Gouraud, Gemmayzeh; s/d/tr US$50/70/105; ) A notch or two in terms of comfort above the budget options, the Port View is small, friendly and comfortable, and within easy walking distance of Rue Gouraud’s bars and restaurants. Ask the knowledgable manager for his latest tips on exploring Beirut.
Casa d’Or (Map; 746 400; www.casadorhotel.com; Rue Jeanne d’Arc, Hamra; s/d/ste US$60/70/90; ) One of Beirut’s best midrange hotels, the Casa d’Or is a welcome addition to the often tired, beige-and-brown options of the Hamra sleeping scene. Its rooms are bright, cheery and well equipped, while equally appealing are its substantial off-season discounts.
Mayflower Hotel (Map; 340 680; www.mayflowerbeirut.com; Rue Neamè Yafet, Hamra; s/d/tr US$80/94/114; ) An old-fashioned Beirut institution, the Mayflower claims to have been ‘exceeding guests’ expectations since 1957’. Don’t necessarily expect quite so much from a stay here, but the rooms are certainly comfortable, the rooftop pool is a definite bonus, and a drink or two at the venerable Duke of Wellington bar a must.
Top End
Hotel Albergo (Map; 339 797; www.albergobeirut.com; 137 Rue Abdel Wahab el-Inglezi, Achrafiye; d from US$255, ste US$325-1400; ) If it’s unequivocal luxury you’re after in that most perfect of boutique settings, look beyond the hefty price tag to the 33 glorious rooms of the Achrafiye-based Albergo. Attentive staff, divine Italian food at the hotel’s Al Dente (Click here) restaurant and a cute rooftop pool complete the plush picture in this delicious, antique-embellished old place.
InterContinental Phoenicia Hotel (Map; 369 100; www.ichotelsgroup.com; Rue Fakhr ed-Dine, Minet el-Hosn; s US$310-330, d US$275-540, ste from US$990; ) Beirut’s most prestigious pre–civil war address is now back on the luxury scene, with miles of marble and all the whistles and bells you could hope for. Heavy security is usually in place since this is the favourite haunt of Lebanese politicians and elite, meaning that you’ll likely have your bag and body searched en route to your opulent, feather-pillowed suite.
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EATING
Beirutis love to eat out, whether at chic top-end brasseries or at tiny hole-in-the-wall shwarma joints; and the city stays open late for its diners, with few arriving for dinner before 9pm or 10pm. The best thing about Beirut is the breadth of culinary choice, and things change fast on the culinary scene: by all means sample our own personal highlights, but don’t miss the opportunity to branch out to seek your own.
Restaurants
HAMRA & RAS BEIRUT
Pasta di Casa (Map; 363 368; Rue Clemenceau, Ras Beirut; mains around LL9000; noon-midnight; ) With its rafters, checked curtains and tablecloths, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stumbled into a tiny Italian backstreet eatery. The pasta portions are huge and delicious; the salads are fresh and tasty, and the prices are as tiny as its 10-tabled interior. Bring cash, since credit cards aren’t accepted.
Walimat Wardeh (Map; 752 320; Rue Makdissi, Hamra; mains LL10,000; noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight;