Middle East - Anthony Ham [358]
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GAY & LESBIAN BEIRUT
Though homosexuality is illegal in Lebanon, there’s a thriving – if clandestine – gay scene in Beirut. Both Acid and B 018 nightclubs (see nightclubs listings below) are very gay-friendly establishments, while Beirut’s hammams and cafés provide plenty of opportunities to meet and greet.
Your first point of contact, though, should be Helem (Map; 745 092; www.helem.net; 1st fl, Yamout Bldg, 174 Rue Spears, Beirut) whose name derives from the Arabic acronym for the Lebanese Protection for Lebanese Gays, Bisexuals and Transgenders. The organisation’s website and its offshoot, www.beirut.helem.net, offers plenty of information, listings and news.
Other useful gay and lesbian resources include:
http://legal.20m.com
www.bintelnas.org
www.gaymiddleeast.com
www.travelandtranscendence.com
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DRINKING
Beirut has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to bars. For a drink in the afternoon, the coffee stops of the Corniche and Hamra are your best, and liveliest, bets; after dinner, the action moves to Gemmayzeh and Achrafiye, where you can bar-hop merrily into the wee hours.
Bars
Pacífico (Map; Rue Monot, Achrafiye; local beers LL6000; 7pm-late) Styling itself on 1920s Havana, this club prides itself on its food (Cuban-Mexican) and lengthy cocktail list (with more than 200 treats on offer). Happy hour, between 7pm and 8pm, is a good way to get an evening out started.
Hole in the Wall (Map; Rue Monot, Achrafiye; beer LL5000; 7pm-late) Particularly popular with expats, this is a great little pub where you can get a proper pint, and respite from the cooler-than-cool of many Rue Monot drinking destinations.
Bar Louie (Map; Rue Gouraud, Gemmayzeh; 11am-late) Laid-back and lively, this little bar hosts live music almost nightly. A couple of doors down, its ‘shots bar’ is the place to go if you’re in need of a good strong pick-me-up, or advice on clubbing hotspots from its hip bartenders.
Torino Express (Map; 03-611 101; Rue Gouraud, Gemmayzeh; 8am-2am) One of Beirut’s coolest small bars, this place is a café by day, transforming into a happy, friendly bar by night, aided by some delicious cocktails and a great DJ.
Blue Note (Map; 743 857; Rue Makhoul, Hamra; 11am-2am) This is one of the very best places to hear jazz and blues in Lebanon. Local – and sometimes international – bands perform at least every Thursday, Friday and Saturday, and admission (LL8800 for local bands, LL19,800 for international) is only charged on evenings when music is live.
Cafés
Bay Rock Café (Map; 796 700; Ave du Général de Gaulle, Raouché; 7am-2am) Spectacularly situated overlooking Pigeon Rocks, this café is an essential, if slightly pricey, port of call. Watch the sun go down over a cold beer, or wiggle with the belly dancers who usually perform at around midnight at weekends.
Al-Kahwa (Map; 362 232; Al-Kanater Bldg, Rue Bliss, Ras Beirut; 10am-1am) Permanently surrounded in a thick haze of nargileh smoke (a nargileh goes for LL10,000), this popular hangout for AUB students during the day also does some tasty snacks, including good quesadillas, and serves up a full English breakfast for LL6000.
Gemmayzeh Café (Map; 580 817; Rue Gouraud, Gemmayzeh; 8am-3am) This venerable Beiruti institution, dating back to Ottoman times, also has something of an aura of old Parisian bistro. Live Arabic music shows (10.30pm to midnight) take place every night except Tuesday; book in advance to make sure you don’t miss this extra-special treat.
Tribeca (Map; 339 123; Rue Abdel Wahab el-Inglizi, Achrafiye; bagels LL5000-10,000; 8am-1am; ) If you’re craving a bagel or a piece of chocolate fudge cake, hurry to this mellow little place,