Middle East - Anthony Ham [364]
Following the path southwest, head past the King’s Well, a spring that supplied the city with water until the end of the Hellenistic era (and where, according to legend, Isis sat weeping on her search for Osiris), to some of the earliest remains on the site, early settlements comprising the remnants of Neolithic (5th century BC) and Chalcolithic (4th century BC) enclosures, houses and huts. Throughout this area, large burial jars were found containing preserved bodies curled up in the foetal position.
Nearby, Byblos’s old temple, the Temple of Baalat Gebal (the Mistress of Byblos) dates back to the 4th century BC. This was the largest and most important temple constructed at Byblos, dedicated to Aphrodite during the Roman period, and was rebuilt a number of times in the two millennia that it survived. Many temple findings, including alabaster vase fragments inscribed with the names of Old Kingdom pharaohs, are today also housed in the capital’s National Museum (Click here). The six standing columns approaching the temple are the vestiges of a Roman colonnaded street, built as the temple approach around 300 AD.
To the northwest of the temple, towards the sea, is the Roman theatre, a one-third size reconstruction of the original, situated near the cliff edge with great views across the sea. Behind this are nine royal tombs, cut in vertical shafts deep into the rock in the 2nd millennium BC; some of the sarcophagi found here are now housed in the National Museum, including that of King Hiram, whose sarcophagus has one of the earliest Phoenician alphabet inscriptions in the world. His grave shaft, too, is inscribed, this time with the eerie phrase, ‘Warning here. Thy death is below.’
CHURCH OF ST JOHN THE BAPTIST (EGLISE ST JEAN MARC)
This Romanesque-style church, at the centre of the Crusader town, was begun in 1115 AD, and was slowly added to in subsequent centuries. It’s thus an interesting mixture of Arab and Italian designs, with remains of Byzantine mosaics scattered about the area. It also features an unusual open-air baptistery, which sits against the north wall, its arches and four supporting pillars topped by a dome.
Almost opposite the church is the kitsch, for-waxwork-enthusiasts-only Wax Museum ( 540 463; admission LL6000; 9am-5pm), a last-ditch diversion for that rare rainy day.
Sleeping
Currently, Byblos isn’t blessed with a great many sleeping options.
Hotel Ahiram ( 540 440; www.ahiramhotel.com; s/d/tr US$50/65/75; ) Quite recently renovated, the Ahiram makes for a reasonable – if not memorable – sleep. All rooms have balconies with sea views, and the hotel has direct access to a small, pebbly beach. Ask about substantial off-season discounts.
Byblos Sur Mer ( 548 000; Rue du Port; s/d/ste US$65/75/105; ) Alhough the rooms are small, tired and a mite overpriced, the central location of this Byblos old-timer can’t be argued with, and neither can the harbour view from the room and seafront pool.
In summertime, it’s worth enquiring at Byblos Fishing Club, which also operates the nearby informal Pepe Hacienda on Pepe Abed. Small bungalows can be rented here for US$20 per night.
Eating & Drinking
Citadelle Café ( 03-584 165; Souq; 7am-midnight) On the corner of the square opposite the tourist office, this makes a fab place for a filling breakfast or an evening tipple. The hummus wraps (LL3000) are huge and yummy; top one off with a strong coffee and a chat with André, the knowledgeable owner, who’ll give you tips on local attractions. There’s usually live music on summer weekend evenings.
Bab El Mina ( 540 475; Old Port; mezze from LL3500, mains LL15,000; 11am-midnight) Boasting a lovely location overlooking the port, the restaurant specialises in fish and traditional Lebanese mezze, at competitive prices. The fisherman’s basket for two (LL45,000) is highly recommended by locals.
Byblos Fishing Club (Pepes; 540 213; Old Port; two-course meal per person US$25; 11am-midnight) A Lebanese institution, the Fishing Club is still best known