Middle East - Anthony Ham [367]
At the souq’s centre, the Khan as-Saboun (Soap Khan; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) was built in the 16th century and first used as an army barracks; since then, it has functioned as a point of sale for Tripoli’s famous soaps for generations. Today, you can still stop in to pick up any of its 400 types of soap; check out the huge one carved into the shape of an open volume of the Quran.
To the west of the Khan as-Saboun is the 300-year-old Hammam al-Abd (basic bath LL12,000; 8am-10pm), the city’s only functioning bathhouse. Unfortunately, it’s only open to men, unless you are travelling with a group of women and can rent out the whole place.
One of the most beautiful buildings in the old city is the Khan al-Khayyatin, formerly a Crusader hospital and today a beautifully restored 14th-century tailors’ souq lined with small workshops. To the northwest of the khan is Khan al-Misriyyin, which is believed to date from the 14th century when it was used by Egyptian merchants. On the first floor of the dilapidated khan, you can find Sharkass (bar of soap LL1000-3000, boxes of 3 LL4000, 1kg natural/perfumed soap LL6000/8000; 10am-5pm winter, to 7pm summer). Making soap since 1803, the family produces good-quality, authentic Tripoli soap; you’re welcome to look around. Note that the shop is on the 1st floor (not the one with the same name on the ground). Close to the souq is the Al-Burtasiya Mosque & Madrassa, with its particularly fine mihrab inside.
Standing on its own to the south of the souqs on the outskirts of the Old City, but well worth the walk, is the restored Taynal Mosque. It dates from 1336 and represents probably the most outstanding example of Islamic religious architecture in Tripoli. As with all the Old City mosques, dress demurely (women should cover their legs, arms and head), take off your shoes outside, and check first that it’s OK to enter. Some Old City mosques offer full cloaks for women to don, especially fun in the height of summer.
CITADEL OF RAYMOND DE SAINT-GILLES
Towering above Tripoli, thisCrusader fortress (admission LL7500; 8am-6pm, closes earlier in winter) was originally built during the period from AD 1103 to AD 1104. It was burnt down in 1297 and partly rebuilt the following century by a Mamluk emir.
The most impressive part of the citadel is the imposing entrance, with its moat and three gateways (one Ottoman, one Mamluk, one Crusader). Guided tours are available and prices depend on group size: generally LL5000/15,000/20,000 for one person/small group/large group. Since there’s an architecturally muddled rabbit warren of parts inside, and very little labelling, it makes sense to employ their services if you want to learn more about the citadel’s history.
Sleeping
Tourism has largely stayed away from Tripoli since the armed stand-offs of 2007, and several budget places have closed down as a result. Since, on top of this, there are really no decent midrange options, Tripoli’s no longer a great base for exploring the north of the country – unless you stay either at the rock-bottom Hotel Koura or the top-end Hotel Via Mina, with a rental car to make travel in the far north far easier.
Tall Hotel ( 628 407; Rue Tall; s/d LL30,000/35,000; ) Unless you are pressed to find a bed for the night, the Tall Hotel shouldn’t be your first choice: although the rooms themselves aren’t too bad, the atmosphere is a little spooky since the corridors are very dim and eerily lit. Look for the red, misspelled ‘Tell Hotel’ sign, stencilled high on the building.
Hotel Koura ( 03-371 041; off Rue Tall; s/d/tr US$15/30/45, dm/d without bathroom US$10/15; ) Without doubt the best of Tripoli’s budget bunch. This friendly, family-run place has bright, simple rooms with stone walls arranged around a central shared lounge. Breakfast is included in the price, and the extremely accomodating owners can arrange day trips.
Palace Hotel ( 429 993; Rue Tall; s/d/tr US$20/40/50;